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Username Post: Speedometer Repair Information        (Topic#271437)
Tony 
Founder & Grand PoohBah
Posts: 19031
Tony
Loc: Georgetown, Texas
Reg: 03-15-99
11-01-11 07:30 PM - Post#2153599    

Thanks to Charle AKA Wagonman for sharing this great information.



Attachment: Speedometer_Repair.pdf (3.38 MB) 3559 View(s)



 


bowtieollie 
Member #3 ChevyTalk Subject Matter Expert
Posts: 21228
bowtieollie
Loc: See the USA in your Chevr...
Reg: 12-06-99
11-02-11 05:16 AM - Post#2153696    
    In response to Tony

Let's make this STICKY!

Bowtieollie
Chevytalk.com Moderator


 
WagonMan 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1670
WagonMan
Age: 76
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
Reg: 10-26-04
11-02-11 06:00 AM - Post#2153715    
    In response to bowtieollie

Thanks a lot Tony.



Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)


 
bowtiefan 
"14th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 2313
bowtiefan
Loc: Vacaville, CA
Reg: 02-19-04
11-02-11 07:37 AM - Post#2153732    
    In response to WagonMan

Great how-to Wagonman. A couple items to add to this. Many Corvette aftermarket suppliers sell the number sets for '57 Corvettes that I would think are interchangeable with the tri-5 sets. Also, the internal gears are not available. I'm sure someone makes them, but they are not available to the public. I tried several speedometer repair and parts places to get one for our 57 Corvette, but all they will do is rebuild your unit. If you are lucky, you might be able to file down any bad spots on the gears to get them to run smoothly. It worked for me.
Ken

39 business coupe, 56 2 dr sdn. 210 Del Ray, Corvettes 61, 67 convert, 07 Z06, 16 Z06, 21 Silverado, 15 BMW 435 vert.


 
Smokey 
Senior Site Adminstrator
Posts: 17447
Smokey
Age: 75
Loc: "Small town USA"
Reg: 12-06-99
11-02-11 08:38 AM - Post#2153754    
    In response to bowtieollie

Good idea Ollie. Here ya go.... a sticky it is......

'67 427 Chevy C-10
'79 454 surburban
'89 454 1 ton dually
'03 V-Star 1100


In Memory of CT's Mike McVeigh and Ron Schrapp (aka rons56)


 
fran0216 
Contributor
Posts: 114
fran0216
Reg: 10-27-09
11-02-11 08:48 AM - Post#2153759    
    In response to WagonMan

Thanks!! this we will help me a lot!! My speedometer is out of a 56, they looked the same from looking at the 57 pdf. My speedometer cable broke and I some plastics peices remains are still inside, I've read a thread to use a drill bit to remove the plastic pieces, drilled and removed some pieces, but when I stick a needle in it, I hit plastic still, I assume if im hitting plastic with a needle there are still remains of plastic pieces in the gear? Is it solid at the other end where the magnetic spins with the cable? What is the best way to remove the plastic pieces that broke inside? Thanks!



 
WagonMan 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1670
WagonMan
Age: 76
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
Reg: 10-26-04
11-02-11 09:26 AM - Post#2153776    
    In response to bowtiefan

  • bowtiefan Said:
Great how-to Wagonman. A couple items to add to this. Many Corvette aftermarket suppliers sell the number sets for '57 Corvettes that I would think are interchangeable with the tri-5 sets. Also, the internal gears are not available. I'm sure someone makes them, but they are not available to the public. I tried several speedometer repair and parts places to get one for our 57 Corvette, but all they will do is rebuild your unit. If you are lucky, you might be able to file down any bad spots on the gears to get them to run smoothly. It worked for me.
Ken




From my experience many of the internal parts will interchange up into somewhere in the 70's so that would open up the possibility of parts availability. You only have to match old parts against replacement parts to make sure. Some parts also depend on the sweep arc of the needle to be compatible.

I haven't personally done it but have seen a speedometer head in a 57 that the owner exchanged the guts from a later model with the trip function and with a bit of work on the face and lens had a nice looking speedometer with a working trip odometer.


Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)


 
WagonMan 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1670
WagonMan
Age: 76
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
Reg: 10-26-04
11-02-11 09:36 AM - Post#2153778    
    In response to fran0216

  • fran0216 Said:
Thanks!! this we will help me a lot!! My speedometer is out of a 56, they looked the same from looking at the 57 pdf. My speedometer cable broke and I some plastics peices remains are still inside, I've read a thread to use a drill bit to remove the plastic pieces, drilled and removed some pieces, but when I stick a needle in it, I hit plastic still, I assume if im hitting plastic with a needle there are still remains of plastic pieces in the gear? Is it solid at the other end where the magnetic spins with the cable? What is the best way to remove the plastic pieces that broke inside? Thanks!


If you are talking about the square hole on the back of the speedometer head, the hole is about 3/4" to 7/8" deep. You will have to drill it out with a small enough bit to about that depth and with a large pin or needle, try to dig out the remaining bits. Going to be very tedious work.




Charles

57 210 4dr. Wagon(bought '82)
-350/700r4 Mild Custom
29 Ford Sedan(bought '75)
-4.3L/TH350(in progress)


 
beejay 
Deceased Member
Posts: 12605
beejay
Age: 87
Loc: Pflugerville, Texas
Reg: 06-01-04
11-02-11 09:49 AM - Post#2153784    
    In response to fran0216

Are you talking about having plastic parts in the speedo cable housing? If the cable is broken, take it completely out, and use compressed air to blow out the housing. Then you can put in a cable repair kit and use liquid graphite (speedo cable lube)when you have the new cable in the housing. Then work the cable back and forth (top to bottom) to insure it's lubed all the way down.

Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"


 
fran0216 
Contributor
Posts: 114
fran0216
Reg: 10-27-09
11-02-11 10:25 AM - Post#2153802    
    In response to WagonMan

The plastic end of the cable that connects into the square hole has completely broken and I've gotten some out. I'll continue to drill and dig with a pin and yes its tedious work. Thanks!!



 
albjerryg 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 277

Loc: Lafayette
Reg: 07-06-11
09-19-14 03:21 PM - Post#2485232    
    In response to beejay

I get the car back tomorrow so I will be able to check if the odometer is moving or not. Thanks for the help....Jerry



 
56Rat 
Poster
Posts: 11

Reg: 06-23-19
07-04-19 08:04 PM - Post#2769954    
    In response to Tony





 
56Rat 
Poster
Posts: 11

Reg: 06-23-19
07-04-19 08:18 PM - Post#2769956    
    In response to Tony





 
Kaptain Kustom 
Newbie
Posts: 35

Loc: Finland
Reg: 01-27-11
07-23-23 02:26 PM - Post#2860629    
    In response to WagonMan

Thanks, that helped me to unassemble the speedo of my '50!

Apparently my problem is the needle shaft is separated from the cup it's supposed to be attached to. That allows the cup to wander backwards and scrape things.

So I must secure the cup to the shaft. The question is: how is the clockspring tension supposed to be related to the stop tab? Will I rotate the shaft related to the cup so, that the spring returns the cup just barely to the stop (when I shake it gently) , or should there be some tension against the stop?



 


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