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Username Post: Help! - ssues with removing ignition lock
wurt
Forum Newbie
Posts 69
05-22-09 03:02 PM - Post#1702736    

Hi all. Again, I need your help . I am trying to relpace my ignition barrel lock, as the one currently installed is worn and I dont have a key for it. I am using the advice fro the manual, by using the key I have for the replacement lock, entering it inot the lock barrell, turnig this to the LOCK position and then, with 2 paper clip ends, trying to push the clip ho0lding the barrel in, via the 2 holes on the barrell face. But of course, this is not working. I note the manaul advises this is the way to do this, but can anyone assit, as I cant seem to be able to turn the lock any more counter clockwise that the LOCK position.
Again - THANKS FOR YOUR HELP! - Stuart
Old_Longboarder
Deceased Member RIP Art
Posts 12969
Old_Longboarder
05-22-09 04:42 PM - Post#1702794    

If you don't have the original key, you're going to have to drill out the lock cylinder.
Home.., is where dog hair sticks to everything but the dog.




502-fivespeed-57hardtop
Contributor
Posts 325
502-fivespeed-57hardtop
05-22-09 04:49 PM - Post#1702797    

Stu, all the ignition locks I have ever removed you have to have the correct key for the lock to remove it, you can't use just any key, it won't work, Sometimes what I do when I get a car that has no key and the ignition is out of the lock postionion is try a bunch of different keys that I have on a large key ring, the keys are from all the 57's that I parted out over the years since the 70's, I can usually find one that will work and turn the ignition so you can pop the lock out. A friend of mine bought a 57 convertible that needed a complete restoration, the car sat for many years and the keys were lost, He asked me what could he do to remove the ignition lock assembly short of hacking up the original dash and I gave him my ring of keys and told him to try one until he found one that worked, he stood there and just laughed at me like he thought I was joking, well a few days later he stopped by and brought me my keys back and informed me that I was right, he found one that worked and was able to pop out the lock without hacking up the dash to get the assembly out. Now you can just imagine how many cars I parted out over the years, Bruce
Theres no replacement for displacement - 57 Bel Air 2 door hardtop, 502 crate motor, Richmond 5 speed, Currie 9 inch rear. 57 Bel Air 4 door wagon, 327, auto., just a fun driver car.

67SS427
Ultra Senior Member
Posts 12697
67SS427
05-22-09 06:12 PM - Post#1702858    

Yes, as the others have said, you can't remove the lock cylinder without a key that works it. Only a working key can get the cylinder into the "locked" position, which is where it needs to go before you can turn it further using the paper clip. Also, if you have 2 holes, the paper clip only goes in the top hole. There is a way to remove it by drilling a hole in the face of the lock cylinder, after popping off the chrome cap. If you want to try that, I can give more info. Or, if you can drive your car, drive over to a locksmith and have him take it out for you and pop in the new cylinder.




raycow
DECEASED
Posts 27999
raycow
05-22-09 10:37 PM - Post#1703017    

The other posts are absolutely right. You need to have the correct key in order to remove the cylinder.

However, don't go drilling anything until you try this trick first. See if you can pry the faceplate (the part with the key slot) off of the lock cylinder. Once the faceplate is out of the way, try to unscrew the switch retaining nut. If it comes off you are home free. You can even save the switch by taking it to a locksmith, who will be able to remove the cylinder.

You can also get the switch out by destroying the retaining nut, but the nut is more expensive and harder to find the the cylinder.

Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

wurt
Forum Newbie
Posts 69
05-23-09 01:19 AM - Post#1703045    

Hi Steve, and All
THANKS VERY MUCH for your assistance. The barrel is that worn that I dont need a key to turn the lock at all - not quite sure if that will help? i.e. I can turn the lock with no ket from lock to on to start the car. But if you can provide the info to drill it out, that would be great, as that looks like the path I am going to have to follow.....

Cheers, Stuart.
raycow
DECEASED
Posts 27999
raycow
05-23-09 04:09 AM - Post#1703072    

Sorry, but you seem to be missing the point. The switch was designed so that it can be turned between OFF, RUN, and START without using a key. Your switch is perfectly normal, not worn.

If you try drilling the cylinder, you are at risk of destroying an otherwise good switch. I told you how to get the switch out of the dash without damaging it. If you would really rather throw money at a problem that doesn't exist yet, send some of it to me instead.

Ray
Those who choose an automatic transmission want transportation. Those who choose a manual transmission want to drive.

beejay
Deceased Member
Posts 12605
beejay
05-23-09 12:00 PM - Post#1703262    

To elaborate on Ray's post: There are FOUR positions to the switch; LOCK, OFF, RUN, START. In that order from left to right. You are in the OFF position. There's another way to go about this. Pull a door lock and take it to a locksmith to have a key made. That key SHOULD fit the ignition.
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"

67SS427
Ultra Senior Member
Posts 12697
67SS427
05-23-09 07:11 PM - Post#1703445    

Beejay's idea about getting a key made from a door lock is very good...IF the ignition lock cylinder were original and still matches the rest of the locks. But, since you said your lock cylinder face has 2 holes in it, it must be a replacement, because the original cylinder has only one hole for the paper clip. You probably have the kind of replacement lock cylinder with the "wings" that overlap the chrome ignition bezel, right? So, if yours is this type of replacement cylinder, using a door lock to make a key probably won't do you any good.

Ray's idea is good. You have to pry off the chrome face part of the lock cylinder anyway to drill it, if you decide to. So, take some channel-lock pliers or vice-grips and grab the face of the cylinder and trying pulling it off. That leaves you with a flat face on the cylinder. Then you can remove the chrome ignition bezel. Then you can should be able to remove the retainer nut, and remove the ignition switch from the dash. It will be alot easier to work on when it's out of the dash.

Then you could take the switch to the locksmith and let him take the cylinder out. But, as I mentioned in my earlier post, if you drive the car, don't take the switch out...just drive to the locksmith and have him do the job with it still in the car and avoid some work(but pay some money ).

But, maybe your car isn't driveable right now. So, if you want to try drilling it yourself, it can be done without damaging the switch, if you're careful. So, if you want to drill it, go ahead and take the switch out as described above, so you can work on it on a bench.

The lock cylinder has a bar on the left side of the key slot. This bar is the locking bar which prevents the cylinder from being turned all the way left to the LOCK position, unless you have the key. You goal is to drill out and remove this bar. So, just to the left side of the key slot, I suggest starting with a 3/32" drill bit and drill a hole 3/4" deep. Don't go deeper or you can damage the switch. Then switch to a 1/8" drill bit and drill the hole again to open it up some more. Then switch to a 3/16" bit, so that now the hole is 3/16" in diameter. Again, don't drill deeper than 3/4". To make sure you don't drill deeper than 3/4", measure from the bottom of the drill bits up to 3/4" and wrap some tape at the 3/4" spot. So when you drill down to the tape edge that will be 3/4" deep.

Once you have your 3/16" hole, pour out the drilling debris and look for the bar I was talking about. There are some tiny springs that you will have drilled through too. The bar should have been drilled loose. Use a pick to pick out the bar. You might have to do some more work in the hole to get the bar or pieces of it loose and out. You may not even have to remove the bar, if after drilling, you can rotate the cylinder because the bar can be pushed inward toward the key slot. I normally try to remove the pieces. Either way, you can rotate the cylinder further to the left with some pliers. Now, you have achieved the LOCK position. Now, put in the paper clip in the small hole(upper hole if you have 2), push on the clip, and turn the cylinder further left again and it will pull out.

Here's a picture of what you're doing. The lock cylinder on the right shows the bar I'm talking about. This cylinder is probably like yours with the wings on the chrome face.
And on the left side, that's the switch assembly which shows where I'm talking about drilling.






Gray Headed Mule
Valued Contributor
Posts 4736
Gray Headed Mule
05-29-09 11:08 AM - Post#1706927    

Get the number off the lock on the door and have a key made by that #. You'll need a key for the door anyway!
Mule

I'm sexy and I know it!

My 49 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe Restoration Project

beejay
Deceased Member
Posts 12605
beejay
05-29-09 12:02 PM - Post#1706951    

Now Wayner, ain't dat whut I dun said two posts up??
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"

Gray Headed Mule
Valued Contributor
Posts 4736
Gray Headed Mule
05-29-09 03:01 PM - Post#1707056    

No! You old fart...you said to pull the lock. I said to get the number off the lock....Old timers disease set in????
Mule

I'm sexy and I know it!

My 49 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe Restoration Project

57belairman
"20th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3026
57belairman
05-29-09 08:33 PM - Post#1707279    

Hey, yall get along now......

"Pull a door lock and take it to a locksmith to have a key made. That key SHOULD fit the ignition."

Life is short, Eat dessert first, I always do!!

Picturetrail
57 2dr ht red
57 Convertible black
57 Nomad larkspur blue
56 Suburban

beejay
Deceased Member
Posts 12605
beejay
05-30-09 12:21 PM - Post#1707548    

Harvey, Wayne and I are very good friends. We have NO problem in jumping into the other's case. Just pure meaness and contrariness, BUT, we're just about like brothers!!!!
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"

Gray Headed Mule
Valued Contributor
Posts 4736
Gray Headed Mule
05-30-09 01:43 PM - Post#1707600    

Yeah! What beejay said!
Mule

I'm sexy and I know it!

My 49 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe Restoration Project

57belairman
"20th Year" Platinum Supporting Member
Posts 3026
57belairman
05-30-09 02:24 PM - Post#1707619    

Yea I know. Great minds think alike.

Life is short, Eat dessert first, I always do!!

Picturetrail
57 2dr ht red
57 Convertible black
57 Nomad larkspur blue
56 Suburban

Gray Headed Mule
Valued Contributor
Posts 4736
Gray Headed Mule
10-30-09 07:36 PM - Post#1797128    

Hey wurt!!! YUou ever get that ignition switch out? How did you do it???
Mule

I'm sexy and I know it!

My 49 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe Restoration Project

56TooManyDoors
Senior Member
Posts 414
56TooManyDoors
10-31-09 07:10 AM - Post#1797216    

Heck! I took my lock out just because I had so much information.... I had to do something with it!
Help me... I'm on the creeper and can't get up! 1956 Chevy 210, 4 door http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2274973 1971 Cutlass Convertible

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