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Username Post: Rear Main Seal Replacement Info Needed        (Topic#275529)
davbell22602 
Contributor
Posts: 337
davbell22602
Age: 37
Loc: Winchester,VA
Reg: 04-30-08
01-27-12 07:01 PM - Post#2184198    

I gotta replace my rear main seal on 97 K1500 Chevy 5.7L with 130K.

How did you guys install the new seal on the retainer plate? Haynes and chilton says to use a GM J-35621 or J-38841. Is there a alterative tool thats works for that I can get at local auto parts store? I have napa, carquest, advance auto, autozone, pepboys, and fisher. Do I really have to remove the front diff to remove the oil pan?

 
sgian 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4551
sgian
Loc: MO
Reg: 12-25-03
01-27-12 10:09 PM - Post#2184260    
    In response to davbell22602

It's a one-piece rear main seal. You need to pull out the engine or the transmission so you can remove the flexplate and the seal.
90 C1500, 05 Tahoe 4WD


 
Allan In NE 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1522

Reg: 12-27-11
01-28-12 05:47 AM - Post#2184296    
    In response to davbell22602

I just work the lip of the seal up onto the crank. Then just gently tap the seal into the retainer going about 1/16" past flush.

The tool insures that the seal is "square with the world". You can see that with your eye.

Allan
Lifelong GM automatic transmission specialist


 
davbell22602 
Contributor
Posts: 337
davbell22602
Age: 37
Loc: Winchester,VA
Reg: 04-30-08
01-28-12 06:53 AM - Post#2184316    
    In response to Allan In NE

What did you use to gently tap the rear main seal on with? What about removing the oil pan?

 
boogie 
Senior Member
Posts: 2138
boogie
Loc: Louisiana
Reg: 07-11-02
01-28-12 12:02 PM - Post#2184403    
    In response to davbell22602

Pan removeal is not nesesary to change the seal.
'85 GMC C1500 SWB 355 sbc


 
davbell22602 
Contributor
Posts: 337
davbell22602
Age: 37
Loc: Winchester,VA
Reg: 04-30-08
01-28-12 12:19 PM - Post#2184408    
    In response to boogie

  • boogie Said:
Pan removeal is not nesesary to change the seal.



But Chilton online says too.

 
boogie 
Senior Member
Posts: 2138
boogie
Loc: Louisiana
Reg: 07-11-02
01-28-12 04:45 PM - Post#2184503    
    In response to davbell22602

You can pull it if you want to but I am here telling you from alot of experience that you do not have to for 1 piece seals
'85 GMC C1500 SWB 355 sbc


 
sgian 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4551
sgian
Loc: MO
Reg: 12-25-03
01-28-12 05:32 PM - Post#2184512    
    In response to davbell22602

  • davbell22602 Said:
  • boogie Said:
Pan removeal is not nesesary to change the seal.



But Chilton online says too.



Are you sure you have the right year 350 looked up? And if you do have the right year, are you sure it's been updated for the one piece seals?

On the 2 TBI 350's I rebuilt, the one-piece seal was something bolted on from the rebuild kit, and there is no way you are doing that with a flexplate still on the engine. Good luck doing this job with the engine still in the vehicle. It was possible to replace a 2-piece rear main seal by removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the vehicle, but not with a one-piece rear main seal. The change was made in the mid-80's.
90 C1500, 05 Tahoe 4WD


 
davbell22602 
Contributor
Posts: 337
davbell22602
Age: 37
Loc: Winchester,VA
Reg: 04-30-08
01-28-12 05:41 PM - Post#2184514    
    In response to sgian

  • sgian Said:
  • davbell22602 Said:
  • boogie Said:
Pan removeal is not nesesary to change the seal.



But Chilton online says too.



Are you sure you have the right year 350 looked up? And if you do have the right year, are you sure it's been updated for the one piece seals?

On the 2 TBI 350's I rebuilt, the one-piece seal was something bolted on from the rebuild kit, and there is no way you are doing that with a flexplate still on the engine. Good luck doing this job with the engine still in the vehicle. It was possible to replace a 2-piece rear main seal by removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the vehicle, but not with a one-piece rear main seal. The change was made in the mid-80's.



Yes I looked it up right. I'm not pulling the engine. I'm removing the trany and transfercase instead.

 
boogie 
Senior Member
Posts: 2138
boogie
Loc: Louisiana
Reg: 07-11-02
01-28-12 07:02 PM - Post#2184561    
    In response to sgian

You will need to remove the transmission and flexplate to access the seal.

To acually remove the seal retainer,Yes,you must remove the pan.

Removal of the pan or seal retainer is not nesessary just to change the seal.
'85 GMC C1500 SWB 355 sbc


 
davbell22602 
Contributor
Posts: 337
davbell22602
Age: 37
Loc: Winchester,VA
Reg: 04-30-08
01-28-12 07:32 PM - Post#2184579    
    In response to boogie

Got any pics of being done with the oilpan and seal retainer on? Even All data says to remove the seal retainer and oil pan.

 
fritz1990 
Senior Member
Posts: 6398
fritz1990
Age: 52
Loc: Kansas
Reg: 02-16-03
01-28-12 08:21 PM - Post#2184596    
    In response to davbell22602

Get the trans and flexplate out of the way and you will see what they are talking about. Pull the seal out of the retainer and start new seal as suggested above.

Trust us it is the way to go unless you like doing extra work.

Books are guidelines and not always 100% gospel.


Regards, Jeff
1998 K1500 6.5 Coal burner
1965 C10 with 498 BBC AFR Heads
1964 C10 Ran 348W for 6 years, now SBC.

Corvettes owned: '74 '77 '78 L82 Silver Anniversary, 2002 LS1

Don't have a nervous come together!

http://picasaweb.google.com/fritz199090


Edited by fritz1990 on 01-28-12 08:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
blackZ71Jeff 
Contributor
Posts: 136
blackZ71Jeff
Reg: 10-05-10
01-29-12 07:55 AM - Post#2184723    
    In response to fritz1990

Trust me, less than 7 months ago I installed a "swap out long block" for my 98 5.7L Vortec. I went through 2 rear main seals because I "buggered" up the first one trying to install without any special tools. The second one just happened to slide over the end of crank and into place, and then a retainer is bolted on to secure it.
Luckily mine was on a stand getting dressed to install and not in the truck yet. I can only imagine having to do it while bellhousing is bolted on the block...installed in the truck.

You are correct that the easiest way would be to drop and slide tranny back to gain access cuz their isnt another way unless you plan on pulling the engine out. Once you have access to the part of crank that slidees into flex plate you will still need a bit of room to get at the retaining cover to the seal, and then get the old one off. If you decide to go with the tranny, make sure you have it properly supported and moved enough to get a ratchet and socket in between the block and flex plate and ample room to work at getting the seal on straight and not end like me and having to make another trip to parts store for another. If you have a short piece of 2x4, it will work to tap on the crank once you have the front edges of seal properly on her.

Good luck bud, I have a plenum to pull and swap out my spider injector, Im glad I have the pulling and install way behind me!
Do not follow where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and blaze a trail!


 
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