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Username Post: 265 Intake Manifold R&R        (Topic#274075)
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
12-27-11 01:47 PM - Post#2172887    

I picked up a used intake manifold for my engine. It is at the shop being hot tanked today. If it is warm enough in the garage this weekend, I might take a swing at getting it installed.

I have never removed and replaced the intake manifold and am wondering if there are any tips or tricks the experts can offer. I've got the "How to Rebuild Your Small-block Chevy" book and this job really looks pretty straightforward. The trick seems to be to make sure and get a good seal all around. What is the best thing to use to get the surfaces as oil free as possible? I've got my Felpro gaskets, silicone and 3M Weatherstrip the book describes. I feel like I'm ready to go.
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
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Old_Longboarder 
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Old_Longboarder
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Reg: 03-28-02
12-27-11 05:46 PM - Post#2172954    
    In response to blue56

Don't use any sealer on the intake or exhaust cross over on the intake gaskets. Use sealer only at the water passage on the front and the blocked water passage on the rear.

Sealer anywhere else on the gasket will eventually burn away and create vacuum or exhaust leaks.

I like to use Gaskacinch Gasket sealer on the water ports, follow the directions on the can. Same for the rubber seals, front and rear, with a dab of silicone sealer where the heads meet the block.
Home.., is where dog hair sticks to everything but the dog.





 
56sedandelivery 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3350

Age: 63
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
12-27-11 06:07 PM - Post#2172966    
    In response to blue56

What year intake are you swapping to? All 55 265's, 56 2 and single 4 barrel 265 intakes, and the early 56 dual quad 265 intakes were all SMALL ports (same for the heads). If you put a larger port intake on smaller port heads you limit the flow, and fuel puddles; unless you port match it to the heads, or the heads to it. I have a fresh pair of #5306 56 265 heads, and the ports are tiny compared to everything else I have. I bought an early 56 dual quad 265 intake, but someone has ruined it by porting the runners larger. Just want you to be aware; it will work and run, but not ideally. Butch/56sedandelivery.



Edited by 56sedandelivery on 12-27-11 06:09 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bowtieollie 
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Posts: 21124
bowtieollie
Loc: See the USA in your Chevr...
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12-27-11 06:28 PM - Post#2172986    
    In response to blue56

Hi Blue,

I am going to assume you are putting a 56 manifold on a '56 V8.

Do not use the rubber end seals supplied in the gasket kit. They will leak.

I prefer to use orange high temp silicone RTV. Put the intake/head gaskets in place, then put a nice 1/4" bead of silicone on both engine block surfaces.

Drop the intake straight down and the install the bolts and torque in 3 stages.

To clean the block, I use 3M Adhesive Remover - blow dry - repeat. Machined surfaces should have a dull, satin appearance once all oil residue is removed.

For the intake gaskets, I prefer Permatex Hi Tack Spray.

Good luck with the project!
Bowtieollie
Chevytalk.com Moderator


 
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
12-27-11 10:07 PM - Post#2173059    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Thanks for the tips. Yes, this is a 56 265 intake manifold going on a 56 265 engine. It came off a Nomad, but I hope that won't make a difference. And it was gunked up something awful. I expect to find the same kind of gunk when I pull the manifold off my engine.

As for the rubber end seals, I believe this set came with cork end seals. I'm not near it right now so can not check. Either way, I will take Bowtieollie's advice and go with the silicone on both surfaces.

What is a good length of time to wait before firing up and checking for leaks?
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
wk55 
Senior Member
Posts: 141
wk55
Age: 70
Loc: Elkview WV USA
Reg: 06-06-01
12-28-11 07:24 AM - Post#2173115    
    In response to blue56

It has been a long time but dont the 2 barrel engine have a longer breather can than a 4 barrel.I think you have to change that thing so it wil clear the under side of the intake.
1955 210 2Door Sedan

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2010 Tahoe LS

2006 Outback 30ft 5er

2000 Yamaha 250 ATV


 
bobg1951chevy 
"7th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 6761
bobg1951chevy
Age: 72
Loc: Ellijay, GA
Reg: 02-18-08
12-28-11 07:54 AM - Post#2173124    
    In response to blue56

  • blue56 Said:
I picked up a used intake manifold for my engine. It is at the shop being hot tanked today. If it is warm enough in the garage this weekend, I might take a swing at getting it installed.

I have never removed and replaced the intake manifold and am wondering if there are any tips or tricks the experts can offer. I've got the "How to Rebuild Your Small-block Chevy" book and this job really looks pretty straightforward. The trick seems to be to make sure and get a good seal all around. What is the best thing to use to get the surfaces as oil free as possible? I've got my Felpro gaskets, silicone and 3M Weatherstrip the book describes. I feel like I'm ready to go.



Are you going to be OK pulling the distributor and reinstalling it?
Bob G.

1951 Styleline Deluxe 2 dr sedan. 1955 235" 3 speed std.
1951 Styleline Deluxe Sport Coupe. 1962 246" 3 speed std. o/d.

www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/215790 56...








 
Farm boy 
Contributor
Posts: 451
Farm boy
Loc: Central California
Reg: 11-03-07
12-28-11 12:05 PM - Post#2173198    
    In response to blue56

Make sure your new intake manifold gaskets are for the small port 265. If you try and use standard SBC intake gaskets on a 265 you will have a vacuum leak.

FEL-PRO Part # MS9200B is the correct intake gasket set for your 265.





Steve
1967 Camaro
1956 Bel Air


Edited by Farm boy on 12-28-11 12:31 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13552
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
12-28-11 12:08 PM - Post#2173201    
    In response to bobg1951chevy

It makes no difference that it came off of a Nomad. I don't know about the 2bbl and 4bbl differences for the engines though. Don't use the end seals, cork or rubber. Just use the RTV. If the "new" intake has a metal plate on the bottom, make sure no gunk is trapped between the plate and the intake that will come out later on. You should be okay since it's being tanked.

As for the distributor, to make things easy, I would set the engine to the desired timing reading or at top dead center before pulling the distributor. That way it will be a snap to reinstall. Just set the engine, pull the cap and put a mark on the distributor where the rotor is pointing and then make a mark on the distributor and the firewall or something else that will be there when you get everything put back together that you can line up again when you reinstall the distributor. Also note that the rotor will turn slightly as it comes out. Remember that when you reinstall it so that it will turn back to where it was when it came out. That will also help line the tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft with the oil pump shaft.

It's not a hard operation. Just take your time and you'll be fine.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
bowtieollie 
ChevyTalk Subject Matter Expert
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bowtieollie
Loc: See the USA in your Chevr...
Reg: 12-06-99
12-28-11 02:59 PM - Post#2173265    
    In response to blue56

  • blue56 Said:
What is a good length of time to wait before firing up and checking for leaks?



I would let it sit for 4 hours.... that will allow the RTV to setup and you will not have to concern yourself with the crankcase pressure potentially causing leakage at the end seals.

Bowtieollie
Chevytalk.com Moderator


 
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
12-28-11 03:10 PM - Post#2173271    
    In response to bobg1951chevy

  • bobg1951chevy Said:
  • blue56 Said:
I picked up a used intake manifold for my engine. It is at the shop being hot tanked today. If it is warm enough in the garage this weekend, I might take a swing at getting it installed.

I have never removed and replaced the intake manifold and am wondering if there are any tips or tricks the experts can offer. I've got the "How to Rebuild Your Small-block Chevy" book and this job really looks pretty straightforward. The trick seems to be to make sure and get a good seal all around. What is the best thing to use to get the surfaces as oil free as possible? I've got my Felpro gaskets, silicone and 3M Weatherstrip the book describes. I feel like I'm ready to go.



Are you going to be OK pulling the distributor and reinstalling it?



Yes, I believe I will. I have (fortunately?) pulled and replaced the distributor and carb before.
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
billys 57 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 6

Loc: Carrollton, Ga
Reg: 08-06-10
12-28-11 03:58 PM - Post#2173285    
    In response to blue56

Blue56, Everyone has given you some good advice about how to install the intake. Over the years, I have found a trick that has always worked for me.
I cut the heads off of 2 3/8' x 2" bolts and remove the burrs. Install the bolts in the first and last bolt hole on the left head.
Slide the intake gasket in place.
Run a 1/4" bead of RTV instead of using the rubber or cork seals. Put the right intake gasket in place. Make sure there is enough RTV to hold the tips of the gasket in place.
Slide the intake onto the studs that you made and gently lower the manifold down to the head on the right side.
Before putting much pressure on the right side, start the first and last bolt on that side of the manifold. All the rest of the bolt should go right in.
Remove the studs before you do any tightening.
I've never had this method fail.
It's even easier without the carburetor.
As to how long you should wait, You should be good to go by the time you finish the manifold and distributor.
I hope this works for you.

Billy



 
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
12-28-11 05:01 PM - Post#2173310    
    In response to Farm boy

Farmboy,
Thanks for the pics. They further prove that I should have asked here before buying. This is the GASKET I purchased. It says it fits a standard 265 with open heat crossover. However, in the middle port there is a metal insert with a hole in it, it is not completely open like the one in your pic. Looks like I've got more shopping to do.
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
craig32 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1251

Age: 52
Loc: PA
Reg: 08-05-07
12-31-11 10:09 AM - Post#2174228    
    In response to blue56

Butch/Steve(Farmboy)
When exactly did port sizes change? I have a 56 265 (the yellow one) with 3725306 heads, casting date C156 (on a 3720991 block dated C2056, stamped 0166164T56FB) When I got the engine, it had a 68 QJ intake on it with an adaptor and a Holley. I took off that setup and got an older intake - 3783244, dated K171. Apparently the gasket set I got is FelPro MS9275B, which is not the numbers listed as correct for a 265. Obviously I would have not used gaskets that didn't match the heads, so are these heads after the change, or could they have been machined bigger to fit the newer sizes? It does not have a vacuum leak as it pulls 18 at idle.
If it is possible that they could be matched, they probably were, as it also has domed pistons, which I'm to understand didn't come out until 57, and not in a 265. The guy at the auto parts store where I get my parts has a 57 Corvette, and he is familiar with the old engines. He asked if I was sure it wasn't bored to 3 - 7/8" (283) but I already had the heads back on. If I ever pull the oil pan, I'll measure the bottom.
Another guy with a bunch of 55's said the pistons were likely aftermarket, and could be either size.
Sorry for hijacking the thread!
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Farm boy 
Contributor
Posts: 451
Farm boy
Loc: Central California
Reg: 11-03-07
12-31-11 11:01 AM - Post#2174251    
    In response to craig32

The first SBC engine to get the larger intake ports was the 1956 265 with two four barrel carburetors. This was a rare engine option in 1956. All 1955 and most 1956 265’s have the small intake ports. Starting in 1957 all engines got the large ports.

When I rebuilt my 265 I put some large port gaskets up next to my heads to see how they fit. The large ports in the gaskets went beyond the outer sealing edge of the small port heads. I would have had a major vacuum leak if I had used these later model gaskets. When I test fit the Fel-Pro MS9200B gaskets fit they fit the 265 heads and intake manifold perfect.

If you are working on an early engine it is a good idea to test fit your new intake gaskets to both the heads and the intake manifold to verify that they are the right size and shape to seal the intake ports before you bolt everything down.
Steve
1967 Camaro
1956 Bel Air


 
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
12-31-11 11:20 AM - Post#2174260    
    In response to wagonman100

  • wagonman100 Said:
If the "new" intake has a metal plate on the bottom, make sure no gunk is trapped between the plate and the intake that will come out later on. You should be okay since it's being tanked.



The guy that did the tanking was kind enough to save the stuff that came from behind that metal plate even though I didn't ask him too. He had about a pint of hard stuff saved in a cut off plastic quart milk carton.
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
56sedandelivery 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3350

Age: 63
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
12-31-11 12:27 PM - Post#2174283    
    In response to Farm boy

Early 56 dual quad 265's had the 3725306 heads, and a 3728725 intake manifold. ALL single 4 barrel 265's in 56 also used the 3725306 heads. Mid year 56, the dual quad 265's got 3731762 heads, and a 3731394 intake. These later heads/intake had larger ports. Exactly what "date" separates the "early from late", I don't know. Butch/56sedandelivery.



 
craig32 
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Age: 52
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12-31-11 12:27 PM - Post#2174284    
    In response to Farm boy

Sorry again to interrupt, but I just googled the Fel Pro part number I listed as having used, and it would be for exhaust gaskets.
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craig32 
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Reg: 08-05-07
12-31-11 12:37 PM - Post#2174288    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

  • 56sedandelivery Said:
Early 56 dual quad 265's had the 3725306 heads, and a 3728725 intake manifold. ALL single 4 barrel 265's in 56 also used the 3725306 heads. Mid year 56, the dual quad 265's got 3731762 heads, and a 3731394 intake. These later heads/intake had larger ports. Exactly what "date" separates the "early from late", I don't know. Butch/56sedandelivery.


So it is possible that March 56 306 heads were larger ports? Or were all 306's larger ports? It also has Corvette valve covers that I know are not stock, as the pad stamp proves otherwise. It also has 57 ram horns and pipes in it as well, instead of the 'logs'. And I'm still unsure of how the yellow paint got on it, I understand it could have been painted any color at any time, but it looks like the original, and it doesn't look like enamel - was old engine paint laquer?
Blue 56, again I apologize for horning in on your thread, I hope you're finding the info you need. It's always good to have more info than you need. . .
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56sedandelivery 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3350

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12-31-11 11:33 PM - Post#2174483    
    In response to craig32

Guess my last post way "vague"; the 3725306 heads are SMALL port. They are 56 CC chamber, and have the "trough" for the spark plug. These are the heads used on all 1956, 265, 4 barrel engines, and the EARLY dual 4 barrel motors. They were a one year only head, 1956. Midyear 1956, the dual quad heads changed to a larger port design, with a different style combustion chamber. So again, early 1956 (or LATE 55 BUILT) #3725306, 1956, 265 heads and 3728725 dual quad intake are the SMALL port. Midyear 1956, 3731762 heads, and 3731394 dual quad intake have LARGER ports. Butch/56sedandelivery.



 
Mike McKown 
Member
Posts: 6

Loc: In.
Reg: 11-29-04
01-03-12 01:10 PM - Post#2175312    
    In response to 56sedandelivery

Do you believe the port size change was a early/late thing or the difference between the 225 horse 2X4 engine and the 240 horse 2X4 engine?

The 225 engine was common. The 240 engine kinda' rare.

 
Jalapeno 
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Jalapeno
Loc: The Republic of Texas
Reg: 04-30-00
01-03-12 02:37 PM - Post#2175334    
    In response to blue56

  • blue56 Said:
in the middle port there is a metal insert with a hole in it, it is not completely open like the one in your pic.



I prefer to use the block off plates in the channels that transfer exhaust manifold heat to the carb. This prevents (or delays) the paint burning off the intake manifold along those channels.
Jalapeno


 
56sedandelivery 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3350

Age: 63
Loc: Everett, Wa.
Reg: 02-26-08
01-04-12 10:42 AM - Post#2175608    
    In response to Mike McKown

It is interesting that Chevrolet labeled BOTH the early and late dual quad 265's as 225HP. BUT, the bigger ports and improved chambers had to bump it up some. As far as the 240HP, that included a "high lift cam". Butch/56sedandelivery.



Edited by 56sedandelivery on 01-04-12 10:42 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
blue56 
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blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
01-05-12 09:14 PM - Post#2176235    
    In response to blue56

Well, project has begun. I did some disassembly today. One thing I should have asked: What is the proper way to drain the intake manifold before removing the thermostat housing and heater hose? Water, water everywhere.

The folks at the local NAPA were able to supply the parts needed to create a "T" connection at the base of the carb to allow hookup of a PCV and the wiper vacuum.

I'm going to attempt a couple of pics. In the first one I think you can see the evidence of leaks around the edges of the manifold. Also, I think I found the source of the strong gas smell when I parked the car. That carb looks like it might be oozing a bit.

In the second one, you can see the mark on the firewall I will use to align the rotor when replacing the distributor.


You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
56driver 
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Reg: 02-26-06
01-06-12 12:04 AM - Post#2176284    
    In response to blue56

  • blue56 Said:
Well, project has begun. I did some disassembly today. One thing I should have asked: What is the proper way to drain the intake manifold before removing the thermostat housing and heater hose? Water, water everywhere.

<snip>




Attach a tube to the drain petcock at the lower right front of the lower radiator tank, then open the petcock and drain the coolant There is a hole strategically placed in the filler panel that will let you route the open end of the tube into a bucket.

You have to drain the coolant until the level in the radiator is below the level of the thermostat housing.
Jonathan Hines
Charlotte, NC
56 BA 4DR sedan undergoing rebuild


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 510

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
01-06-12 08:33 AM - Post#2176355    
    In response to 56driver

I don't know that I have ever gotten one completely dry but it helps a lot if you pull the plugs on the side of the block to drain it. It seems to vacuum lock the liquid in the block & heads if you don't.
57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
wagonman100 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 13552
wagonman100
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
01-06-12 08:09 PM - Post#2176557    
    In response to J REID

I usually put petcock valves in the block in place of the plugs so that I can drain the block to that point for any needed work. It will drain it low enough to pull the heads and everything stays relatively dry.
Jay
Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon


 
blue56 
"11th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 373
blue56
Loc: LaGrange, KY
Reg: 05-24-03
01-07-12 12:56 PM - Post#2176722    
    In response to blue56

Project is complete. Took a test drive a little while ago and find no leaks. No gas smell when parking in the garage either. One last thing I have to do is reset the automatic choke, but I think I remember how to do that.

A big "Thank you" to everyone that offered suggestions and guidance. Being a real novice on this, I wasn't sure what to expect. You guys all helped more than you probably know. The tip with the cut off studs to line the thing up worked perfectly. Having the correct gaskets to start with was obviously a good thing. When we got the old manifold off, we saw the prior owner had used the rubber end gaskets and apparently little or no sealant where they met the side gaskets. We had to scrape a lot in the corners to get the gunk out. We used the Permatex orange High Temp RTV and left the rubber in the box. I went with the PCV kit from Ecklers and it worked fine except the hose was about 3 inches short.

Next up... Electric wipers, but that might be a ways off. Or, maybe I'll see if I can get my heater control valve to close all the way. It isn't going to be winter forever and the heater works great.
You can't drink all day...

...if you don't start in the morning.


 
triplefive 
Contributor
Posts: 695
triplefive
Loc: Brisbane Australia
Reg: 07-08-11
01-07-12 02:26 PM - Post#2176743    
    In response to blue56

Once you get hold of a motor, the electric wiper project should take you about ten minutes.
Best to ask the knowlege bank on here what differences there are between 55, 56 and 57, what's best, and how to tell them apart, before you buy one.
From my limited research on it so far, There is a very worthwhile recommendation on this forum somewhere for a fuse between the resistor and the wiper motor so that, in the event of a wiper malfunction, you don't lose ignition and melt wires.
Cheers.
Mike.
Mike.

Procrastination; the one thing I never put off until tomorrow.


 
173rdherd 
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02-24-12 04:34 PM - Post#2194820    
    In response to triplefive

just read the whole thread at triple 5's recommendation and thanks for all the technique pointers as they will transfer to my 58's 2 to 4 bbl swap.....when you guys go in depth on this stuff it really helps a lot of us less experienced wrenchers.
58 4 dr Yeoman (Nadine)
57 4 dr 150 (Dottie)
53 4 dr tradesman (Tupelo Honey)
and they're all....
Positively Fourth Street.


 
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