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Username Post: drive shaft length        (Topic#259869)
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
03-25-11 11:28 AM - Post#2066970    

i have a 62 short bed replaced engine with 327 and rear suspension from a late 70's truck. current drive shaft wont work would like to know what would work. thanks, ted

ps went to search and found no anser in 500 posts.


 
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Chevy_Stepside 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 5807
Chevy_Stepside
Age: 51
Loc: San Francisco, Ca, USA
Reg: 07-08-02
03-25-11 02:06 PM - Post#2067044    
    In response to ted1962

A drive shaft from a short bed truck that is 63 and up. Gee just a wild guess here. My 65 shaft worked with the 72 rear and I also had a 700R4. Just had to change the front yolk. Maybe all you have to do is change the front yolk and get a special u joint for the rear. I dont know much about the 62 rear ends.
"A man and his truck, It's a beautiful thing"
The tour is on again. May 1st 2011. $5 I ride 100 miles. http://main.diabetes.org/site/TR?pg=personal&a mp;f...


 
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
03-26-11 03:23 PM - Post#2067596    
    In response to Chevy_Stepside

I HAVE A LATE 70 REAR END, CHEVY. 1/2TN


 
Rich 5150 69 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1939
Rich 5150 69
Loc: Sac, Calif
Reg: 11-21-04
03-26-11 11:47 PM - Post#2067793    
    In response to ted1962

What trans are your running..?
`64 Chevy sb, `69 RS/SS, `37 F**d Coupe 406 sm blk
http://photobucket.com/R51506964


 
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
03-27-11 08:08 AM - Post#2067898    
    In response to Rich 5150 69

a late seventies saganaw 4 speed


 
Rich 5150 69 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1939
Rich 5150 69
Loc: Sac, Calif
Reg: 11-21-04
03-28-11 07:28 AM - Post#2068459    
    In response to ted1962

Get yourself a tape measure and go to yo pull it and start measuring all GM cars and trucks with comparison to what your measurements are, with all the combos GM had you might just get lucky, one thing to keep in mind is that you`ll need one half to three quarter of an inch of play of the drive shaft ( foward/backward motion ) for axle swing ( suspension up/down) spline count I think is the same as the 350 turbo, someone correct me if I`m wrong.
`64 Chevy sb, `69 RS/SS, `37 F**d Coupe 406 sm blk
http://photobucket.com/R51506964


 
Guns 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: SA TX
Reg: 10-23-10
03-29-11 05:19 PM - Post#2069196    
    In response to Rich 5150 69

I agree w Rich, but talk to a drive shaft builder so you get the wiggle room right. No one can tell you the length because too many floating factors, where in the frame you mounted it, type of tranny and short or long shaft, rearend,.... BUT I am doing the EXACT same thing (327/400 turbo, newer rearend)and will do the exact same thing when that time comes. wiggle room for the front spline, may be a 1/4 to 3/4 inch- but talk to your shaft builder first.

Edited by Guns on 03-29-11 05:20 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
LILRED66 
"4th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 582
LILRED66
Loc: Kansas City, KS, USA
Reg: 12-07-04
04-02-11 07:35 AM - Post#2070684    
    In response to ted1962

I went through 20 driveshafts I have in my inventory, that all came from '60-'66 Chevy/GMC trucks, Panels & Suburbans, but I did not find the one I was looking for. I dropped a 327/Turbo 350 into a '65 Chevy C20 lwb, that originally had a 2-piece driveshaft and I wanted to change to a 1-piece, thus eliminating the carrier bearing. I ended up taking my slip yoke to the driveshaft builder. He offers 2-day service and it will have new "U" joints, built, balanced & painted for $160.00, out-the-door.
Tony Smith
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felixcajaput 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 48
felixcajaput
Loc: Akron, Ohio
Reg: 11-05-05
04-04-11 06:15 PM - Post#2072002    
    In response to LILRED66

Hi all, I am just starting this mod (rear end swap). I have a 1962 long bed, with 350 motor, TH350 trans, i replaced the front suspension crossmember this past winter and am planning on swapping the rear end. I took off the bed, boy that was difficult with two guys. I have my newer rear end from a 10 bolt from an 87 pickup truck. I dont know what to do next.

How should i go about measuring, the existing rear end, and the new rear end for proper placement? And pinion angle, how do i set that?

I am just a little geeked up about getting it right so the truck tracks down the road right.

Thanks in advance for your help

 
Rich 5150 69 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1939
Rich 5150 69
Loc: Sac, Calif
Reg: 11-21-04
04-05-11 06:18 PM - Post#2072436    
    In response to felixcajaput

Go here
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.htm...

and you will need a bubble protractor to find pinion angle, generally 3 to 5 degrees down at the universal cup.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http:// www.mai...
`64 Chevy sb, `69 RS/SS, `37 F**d Coupe 406 sm blk
http://photobucket.com/R51506964


Edited by Rich 5150 69 on 04-05-11 06:19 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
felixcajaput 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 48
felixcajaput
Loc: Akron, Ohio
Reg: 11-05-05
04-05-11 08:37 PM - Post#2072505    
    In response to Rich 5150 69

Thanks Rich for info on setting pinion angle and the picture of a bubble square. But first how should I go about placing the new rear-end I have for my truck. I am looking for any type of pointers from anyone that has already done this swap in their trucks.

 
Guns 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: SA TX
Reg: 10-23-10
04-14-11 04:16 PM - Post#2076789    
    In response to felixcajaput

Ted, I also bought a newer rearend, I then cut and ground off the existing perches from the new rearend, since your truck has a tariling arm and the newer truck did not, I then ordered a perch kit from Classic Chevy ($115) w new perches, bar and mounts. I then set the angle sim to the old one (eye balled it, welded the new perches in place after setting up on the trailing arms and leveling. But measure every thing to make sure you are centered left and right. There were a couple tricks in the mech brakes- I had to pull the old brake cables and use on the new. It takes a couple hours to cut and grind clean, then 10 mics to weld on the new. After all that- then you measure the drive shaft w rearend and motor/tranny bolted in. I am doing another one just like yours in a couple weeks. On the angle, I have used many AL wedges in jeeps to reduce the angle on the diffs, but it doesn't change the angle on the transfer case or tranny. Jeeps are more sensitive and much more problematic on U-joints due to the short wheel base and short drive shafts. Your LWB will be very forgiving, but you don't want to increase the angle, if that makes sense. So reducing the angle w your weld will not hurt. I start with a level frame and set it up just "upward" of flat, or use the bubble protractor deal. let me add; the frame is level to match the level tranny, because the frame is not level in the truck when sitting on the wheels. Maybe this helps, good luck.

Edited by Guns on 04-14-11 04:31 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
ted1962 
Contributor
Posts: 169
ted1962
Loc: paradise ca
Reg: 07-21-10
04-15-11 09:05 AM - Post#2077045    
    In response to Guns

helps a lot, thanks Ted


 
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