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Username Post: Engine ID codes, castings #s etc        (Topic#253853)
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-05-10 11:05 AM - Post#2013872    

As I tried to idenify my later model 350 engine I kept running into websites that did not have information for later model 350 sbc engines, heads, etc. I tried using the site Hilander listed but the info was mainly for older engines. Here are a few other sites that I found which had additional information on later model engines, heads, gm codes etc. Hope it save others some time. Kieth

http://muscle-car-resto.com/block/ Muscle Car

http://www.ecbrcnj.com/id13.html East Coast Boat Racing club of New Jersey

http://www.rapidomarine.com/default.aspx?p=/block_... Rapido Marine this was where I found infor on my engine.....

Edited by kieth on 12-05-10 11:09 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
bobschevytrucks.com
Ecklers Chevy Trucks
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-05-10 11:24 AM - Post#2013883    
    In response to kieth

The engine which I have did not come in the 88 suburban which I purchased. I have the engine out now and thought I would see if their were some simple mods that I could make which would improve its performance. Here is the information that I have on this engine.
350 TBI
engine block casting # 10054727 (350 87 or later, 2 or 4 bolt main, single piece rear main, made in Canada or US)

Head Casting Info: 14102193 (1.94" X 1.5") not a high performance head but has fair charecteristics) some 290 hp crate engines use this head)

Engine Code stamp: K 07 25 FJC

K=Ontario Canada (other ids on eng say canada)

07=7th month July

25 Day of the month

FJC I can find no reference to this anywhere ! Can anyone help with this ?

I know this is a mild 350 260gross hp 200 net, throttle body injected.

I would like to know if it has a roller cam, and what could be done to it to improve the performance, I am adding headers, air intake improvement, and if the heads would breath enough maybe add a cam and some injector updates to make it run a little better. Anyone have suggestions ? or where I can go to get additional info. Thanks, Kieth

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25749
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
12-05-10 11:28 AM - Post#2013886    
    In response to kieth

I found a new one (to me) handy for ID'ing a 90's throttle body engine just a few days ago; guy in the performance section had this: 14093638, 5.7LG, V0303CWA. Well the 5.7LG is self-explanatory, it's a 5.7, not sure if the LG means anything. It's the marking I've seen on many 5.7 TBI engines.

Using: http://www.chevymania.com/partsid/
14093638=87-95 car/truck 350 2 and 4 bolt, 1 piece rear main seal, ranging in HP from 155 to 255

Then, using: http://www.chevymania.com/partsid/suffix.cfm?block...
CWA=1988 Chevy Impala 350 4 barrel 170 HP Police model RPO LM1 used w/700R4

And finally, using an old standby: http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php
V=Flint MI plant, 0303=March 3rd

Sometimes takes a little combining of sites to get the clear picture, and all of the info.

Using Chevymania for your data:
10054727=86-up 155-205HP Car & Truck 2-bolt Passenger stick 1-piece seal

FJC=91 350 Truck 210HP RPO L05 TBI


The truck TBI engines did not have roller cams. They should have the bosses in the intake valley for the setup, sometimes drilled/tapped, sometimes not. I have heard a couple of people just swear up and down they had a roller TBI out of a truck but I'd think it was some kind of error or factory replacement, as it was not the normal setup.

My 1994 truck TBI is drilled/tapped:


Before switching to a roller setup you'll want to be sure you use the appropriate hardened distributor gear so the cam won't eat it up. Apologies if you already know this.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-06-10 08:03 AM - Post#2014212    
    In response to someotherguy

Thanks very much, I need all the help I can get. never apologize for helpful info , I am sure not a expert on anything related to these engines, just kind of stumbling along. thanks a lot for the info, thought that was the case (L05 but did not know for sure. When I bought the Suburban they said it was out of a later model vehicle with very low miles, your info bears this out and now I can proceed to see what low cost mods I can make to improve performance. Thanks again Kieth

Other info I found said it could be a 2 or 4 bolt main so I am dropping the pan to check it out. I am not sure how hard a roller cam is to install but I have checked the pricing and it would not be a cheap upgrade. Since this is going to be a daily driver I think I will just put a air intake system on it, a spacer plate, and headers. That should perk it up a little and not cost a lot. Kieth

 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-06-10 08:17 AM - Post#2014216    
    In response to kieth

Which bosses that are drilled and tapped are you referring to ? Is it the 3 in the center between the heads ? (see how stupid I am about this subject) Since we are talking about ignorance, if we did have the cam changed be it roller or tappett, can it be accomplished from the front of the engine without tearing a lot of other parts down (I currently have the accessory drive off and am cleaning and painting the engine.? Thanks again for your help. Kieth

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25749
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
12-06-10 08:28 AM - Post#2014218    
    In response to kieth

Yes, the 3 right down the center of the intake valley. A keeper/hold-down bolts in there when you have the factory roller setup. Here's an example from a Vortec 5.7 which is roller from factory:



Nevermind the tan chunky stuff; that's roof insulation that came down during hurricane Ike. And of course the thick sludge everywhere indicates previous owner wasn't a fan of oil changes.

You can do the cam with the engine in place, but you'll need to remove the radiator, grille, and possibly the cross support bars on the core support - anything so that you have a clear and perfectly straight shot to where the cam goes into the block.

Don't forget what I said about the distributor gear, if you convert to a roller cam. GM uses one that is melonized (a chemical hardening process) but refer to your specific cam mfgr. for what they suggest.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-06-10 12:43 PM - Post#2014319    
    In response to someotherguy

I am doing a frame off and the engine is sitting in a stand so it seems now is the time to do the cam but I still think that the exhaust, spacer plate, and air intake should do just fine, I want it to run good as a daily driver not be a hot rod........Your pictures are worth a thousand words and I now know what to look for. Thanks, Kieth

 
fritz1990 53
Senior Member
Posts: 6401
fritz1990
Age: 53
Loc: Kansas
Reg: 02-16-03
12-06-10 05:24 PM - Post#2014405    
    In response to kieth

You could change the cam over to a roller now and be done with it. If you look on E*ay there are usually the ZZ4 roller cams that people take out which would be a lil' step up.

Don't remember the specs on it, but if nothing else could get a factory Vortec take out for sure.

Most of these go cheap as do the roller lifters for them. Don't need to worry about what lobes the lifters come off on a roller cam.

Might need to check and see if the cam comes with a lobe for fuel pump and if the block is drilled for fuel pump pushrod.

Should be able to find the springs and pushrods for it also. Might look into it if you're not in a hurry. Might be cheaper than you think to go roller.

Regards, Jeff
1998 K1500 6.5 Coal burner
1965 C10 with 498 BBC AFR Heads
1964 C10 Ran 348W for 6 years, now SBC.

Corvettes owned: '74 '77 '78 L82 Silver Anniversary, 2002 LS1

Don't have a nervous come together!

http://picasaweb.google.com/fritz199090


Edited by fritz1990 on 12-06-10 05:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-07-10 07:10 AM - Post#2014616    
    In response to fritz1990

From what I understand the kit to go roller is only $40.00 from GM, what kind of gain in duration and lift would I get with a stock roller cam over my mild LO5 cam ? I really only want mid range not top end, its not a race truck ??

Oh yea, I did paint the engine yesterday, we are getting ready to install the transmission and slide it into the frame to locate the rear crossmember. I went with red because this is a GMC and their engines were red even though this engine never resided in a 66.. I am using a inline electric fuel pump with a adjustable inlet pressure just to make sure everything works correctly. Thanks again for the input Kieth

http://kieth.smugmug.com/Trucks/66-GMC/1331108 6_gR...


  • fritz1990 Said:
You could change the cam over to a roller now and be done with it. If you look on E*ay there are usually the ZZ4 roller cams that people take out which would be a lil' step up.

Don't remember the specs on it, but if nothing else could get a factory Vortec take out for sure.

Most of these go cheap as do the roller lifters for them. Don't need to worry about what lobes the lifters come off on a roller cam.

Might need to check and see if the cam comes with a lobe for fuel pump and if the block is drilled for fuel pump pushrod.

Should be able to find the springs and pushrods for it also. Might look into it if you're not in a hurry. Might be cheaper than you think to go roller.

Regards, Jeff




 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-07-10 08:29 AM - Post#2014658    
    In response to kieth

Wow, went down the street to a friends shop, he said he had zz4 rockers, lifters, cam, etc. Guess how much ?

$200.00 installed.......can't beat that will take the engine to him tomorrow.....I need to check on the part for the distributor........that hardened drive gear. Fun Fun thanks so much for the suggestion.......Kieth

 
fritz1990 53
Senior Member
Posts: 6401
fritz1990
Age: 53
Loc: Kansas
Reg: 02-16-03
12-07-10 10:16 AM - Post#2014703    
    In response to kieth

I think you will be happy with it. Glad you found a smokin' deal.

Regards, Jeff
1998 K1500 6.5 Coal burner
1965 C10 with 498 BBC AFR Heads
1964 C10 Ran 348W for 6 years, now SBC.

Corvettes owned: '74 '77 '78 L82 Silver Anniversary, 2002 LS1

Don't have a nervous come together!

http://picasaweb.google.com/fritz199090


 
kieth 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 87

Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Reg: 08-05-10
12-08-10 01:15 PM - Post#2015248    
    In response to fritz1990

Bad news, the block is not tapped actually does not even have the bosses........oh well....but the engine looks great up top no evidence of any problems.......Putting the intake back on so we can put it in the truck.....Kieth

 
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Ecklers Chevy Trucks
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