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Username Post: AC high side valve leaking: Can I fix this myself?        (Topic#245395)
Posts: 231

Reg: 01-07-04
07-11-10 09:28 AM - Post#1943714    

1999 Suburban with front and back air. Front air is not very cold so I bought a can of R134a and filled the low side valve with the entire can and gauge continues to read on the upper edge of "filled" and caution. About 40 I guess. When I remove the plastic cap on the high side freon hissed pretty good so I know it's leaking. Probabaly even when the cap is on. The air defintately got a lot colder after adding a can of refrigerant but I'm sure the valve needs to be replaced.

So....I can get the replacement valve for about $20 and it looks like a new one just screws on. But now there's the dilemma of removing the old one and having all that R134a escape into the air. I live in the boonies with no one around for miles and miles. If I do this myself, I can get by with $50 or less for the new valve and a couple of cans of R134a; if I take it to the shop I'm sure there going to get me for 5x more for a complete AC service.

Is this at all dangerous to do myself? Just wondering as I hear these veh.s have a tendency to leak out of the high side AC.

"14th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1878
Loc: new york
Reg: 04-23-03
07-11-10 02:13 PM - Post#1943825    
    In response to Crusty1

Its a good bet that if you try to remove the valve with pressure still in the system, you will probably get burned ( cold burn) or the valve could launch. Bigger issue is that once you open up the system, you should really replace the drier and have the system vacummed down to accept the new freon. If you dont do that, you will probably never get decent cooling. Another option is to get some freon with a sealer. That may cure your problem or at least keep it working until you can get it repaired correctly.

"9th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 2307
Loc: Bakersfield Ca
Reg: 01-30-05
07-11-10 05:53 PM - Post#1943941    
    In response to Crusty1

I think I would try tightening the shreader valve a little more or maybe bump the stem a little. Maybe it will reseat.



59 Impala Sport Coupe

36 Dodge Street rod..........owned 27 years

Posts: 231

Reg: 01-07-04
07-11-10 09:40 PM - Post#1944042    
    In response to wings59

  • dodge36 Said:
I think I would try tightening the shreader valve a little more or maybe bump the stem a little. Maybe it will reseat.

The high side valve doesn't have a schrader valve in it. It's a ball and rubber seat. But I did try squirting some WD40 and blowing it out to no avail.

Super Senior Member
Posts: 13976
Loc: Baltimore, MD
Reg: 11-27-04
07-12-10 04:38 AM - Post#1944076    
    In response to Crusty1

You can also try to stick something in the valve to quickly open it a little bit (and keep your hands out of the way) and then let it close. Sometimes there is a little bit of debris caught in between the valve and side of the line and causes it to leak. I have done this before and got the valve to stop leaking. If nothing disturbs the valve again, it should stay closed.

Some days it's not worth chewing through the restraints.

1999 Silverado Z71 4X4 extra-cab short bed
1983 Malibu Fauxmad - tubbed
1978 El Camino Kustomized
1972 Monte Carlo
1957 210 handyman wagon
1957 Nomad sport wagon

Posts: 683

Reg: 09-12-07
07-12-10 08:04 AM - Post#1944146    
    In response to wagonman100

I do not know of a fix for your problem if it has the ball and rubber seat but for the others that might have the schrader valve core I am told that Master Cool has a tool that will let you change the valve core without discharging the system. The part number is MSC-81490 and there is one on Ebay now for 39.99 item # 200358152917. If anyone knows if these work or not please let us know.

Posts: 231

Reg: 01-07-04
07-12-10 08:11 AM - Post#1944153    
    In response to BG

I just sent a message to the ebay seller asking if this tool works on both the high and low side connections. Will report back what he says.

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