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Username Post: Orange sludge in radiator.        (Topic#245332)
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-10-10 07:27 AM - Post#1943299    

Yesterday i opened the radiator cap on my car and there was this orange sludge type stuff on the bottom of the cap and in the radiator. Anybody have any ideas on what this is. Ill try and get a pic this evening and post it.
Thanks
Jason
1953 chevy 210 sedan


 
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Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11009

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
07-10-10 07:51 AM - Post#1943308    
    In response to TheDude013

Do you have an automatic transmission?

Are use using Dexcool anti-freeze?
ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-10-10 09:57 AM - Post#1943352    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

NO and NO
1953 chevy 210 sedan


 
beejay 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12599
beejay
Age: 78
Loc: Pflugerville, Texas
Reg: 06-01-04
07-10-10 12:30 PM - Post#1943402    
    In response to TheDude013

Shine a bright light into the filler and see if there's anything blocking the slits for the core. If so, it's collecting rust.
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"


 
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-10-10 03:18 PM - Post#1943438    
    In response to beejay

Here are the pics of the stuff in the radiator.


1953 chevy 210 sedan


 
gsport 
Contributor
Posts: 925
gsport
Loc: Salem, Oregon
Reg: 10-04-09
07-10-10 05:24 PM - Post#1943465    
    In response to TheDude013

water/oil mix???? rust? what's your oil look like??
Jim
Salem, Oregon
1950 chevy, sport coupe. gone, but not forgotten
2011 chevy, SS camaro, synergy green
2011 silverado 4x4 crewcab, 3500 HD
2006 corvette convertible
2014 39ft. 5th wheel
2013 harley fatboy, sold
2006 JD riding mower


Edited by gsport on 07-10-10 05:25 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2blu52 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14988

Age: 81
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
07-10-10 05:29 PM - Post#1943468    
    In response to TheDude013

Rust rust and more rust. Solid enough that it is probably blocking off the radiator tubes and collecting at the rear of the block. How long have you been running the engine, it looks like it had recent work, but was the block boiled out?
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11009

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
07-10-10 06:13 PM - Post#1943485    
    In response to 2blu52

Thats rust coming out of the engine.
ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-10-10 06:20 PM - Post#1943487    
    In response to 2blu52

I have only had the car about a month. and yes its had some work. But before I got it. The car has been in a barn since 77. The gut I got it off of went through the car put alot of new stuff on the car. He did go through the motor but not sure exactly what all he did.
I have prob put 100 miles on it. It was not like this last week when I checked the water.
Thanks
Jason
1953 chevy 210 sedan


 
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-10-10 06:31 PM - Post#1943495    
    In response to gsport

The oil looked dark. Someone told me to check for a milky color. Is that right?
Jason
1953 chevy 210 sedan


Edited by TheDude013 on 07-10-10 06:31 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
2blu52 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14988

Age: 81
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
07-11-10 07:57 AM - Post#1943672    
    In response to TheDude013

  • TheDude013 Said:
The oil looked dark. Someone told me to check for a milky color. Is that right?
Jason


Oil and water generally leave a whitish residue and look milky on the dip stick. You are not having a problem with oil. It is rust and lots of it. Gene knows the answers to most chev problems if he says it it is 99.99 percent correct.
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
arnieg141 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6353
arnieg141
Loc: nj
Reg: 10-06-08
07-11-10 09:20 AM - Post#1943710    
    In response to 2blu52

NOW YOU NEED TO FLUSH YOUR system . it looks like it may take a few times . flush it run it a while if still dirty flush till water stay clean then drain and put 50/50 antifreeze. the way it looks you should change your thermostate to before you put your antifreeze in.
GET ER DONE .. AS I GET OLDER I LIKE FAST CARS I CAN STILL DRIVE. AND VERY SLOW WOMEN I CAN CATCH while still able..arnie garrison


Edited by arnieg141 on 07-11-10 09:20 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
beejay 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12599
beejay
Age: 78
Loc: Pflugerville, Texas
Reg: 06-01-04
07-11-10 12:23 PM - Post#1943778    
    In response to arnieg141

  • arnieg141 Said:
NOW YOU NEED TO FLUSH YOUR system . it looks like it may take a few times . flush it run it a while if still dirty flush till water stay clean then drain and put 50/50 antifreeze. the way it looks you should change your thermostate to before you put your antifreeze in.



Arnie, sometimes you and I think too much alike!! Use a GOOD engine flush and flush many, many times to get about as much as you're going to be able to get out. Your raddy looks like a new, aluminum down-flow. I would take it out and backflush the beejeebers out of it. As far as the thermostat, I'd chunk it and get a new one. I'd also replace the raddy cap, and, if you do, make sure to get the right pressure cap for the raddy. IF the heater core had been replaced, I'd suggest a 7-lb cap. Otherwise, keep to the original.
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"


 
arnieg141 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6353
arnieg141
Loc: nj
Reg: 10-06-08
07-11-10 01:19 PM - Post#1943798    
    In response to beejay

yes no higher than a 7 lbs. cap these old cars are low pressure
  • beejay Said:
  • arnieg141 Said:
NOW YOU NEED TO FLUSH YOUR system . it looks like it may take a few times . flush it run it a while if still dirty flush till water stay clean then drain and put 50/50 antifreeze. the way it looks you should change your thermostate to before you put your antifreeze in.



Arnie, sometimes you and I think too much alike!! Use a GOOD engine flush and flush many, many times to get about as much as you're going to be able to get out. Your raddy looks like a new, aluminum down-flow. I would take it out and backflush the beejeebers out of it. As far as the thermostat, I'd chunk it and get a new one. I'd also replace the raddy cap, and, if you do, make sure to get the right pressure cap for the raddy. IF the heater core had been replaced, I'd suggest a 7-lb cap. Otherwise, keep to the original.


GET ER DONE .. AS I GET OLDER I LIKE FAST CARS I CAN STILL DRIVE. AND VERY SLOW WOMEN I CAN CATCH while still able..arnie garrison


 
52chevybob 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5628

Reg: 05-27-08
07-11-10 03:57 PM - Post#1943878    
    In response to arnieg141

I found this question to be rather poorly answered until the photos were shown. Red/orange is rust guys, not oil in the water or anything else. Also note that white stuff in the oil is water which mixes with the oil to make a light chocalate solid colored fluid rather than the oil which is dark brown and translucent to black fluid.
The radiator probably needs to be rodded out to get rid of most of the rust and a good flushing after that by a radiator shop. All of the freeze plugs of the engine need to be removed and the water passages need to be cleaned of all of the loose rust as well as the rust that collects in the bottom of the water passages. Then the engine block needs to be chemically treated inside the water passages to complete the rust removal process. After that, you can't use water in the cooling system but have to usse the green coolant to keep out any more rust.

 
beejay 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12599
beejay
Age: 78
Loc: Pflugerville, Texas
Reg: 06-01-04
07-12-10 12:57 PM - Post#1944279    
    In response to 52chevybob

  • 52chevybob Said:
I found this question to be rather poorly answered until the photos were shown. Red/orange is rust guys, not oil in the water or anything else. Also note that white stuff in the oil is water which mixes with the oil to make a light chocalate solid colored fluid rather than the oil which is dark brown and translucent to black fluid.
The radiator probably needs to be rodded out to get rid of most of the rust and a good flushing after that by a radiator shop. All of the freeze plugs of the engine need to be removed and the water passages need to be cleaned of all of the loose rust as well as the rust that collects in the bottom of the water passages. Then the engine block needs to be chemically treated inside the water passages to complete the rust removal process. After that, you can't use water in the cooling system but have to usse the green coolant to keep out any more rust.



Now, I kinda take exception to YOUR reply. I posted third, and told him to check the raddy, with a light, to see if it's plugged.

Now, after that, what you said about how to go about cleaning the raddy and block are fine. Just don't be so fast to judge others!
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"


 
Gene_Schneider 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 11009

Loc: Wisconsin..USA
Reg: 09-27-02
07-12-10 06:20 PM - Post#1944429    
    In response to beejay

I agree with the complete block cleaning operation. Anything less and the rust will just keep coming.
ChevGene 1934 Master sedan 1939 Master DeLuxe Town Sedan 1950 Styline DeLuxe Power Glide 1957 Nomad 283 PG 1963 Corvair Convertible


 
52chevybob 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5628

Reg: 05-27-08
07-12-10 08:23 PM - Post#1944493    
    In response to Gene_Schneider

Without pictures it sounded like rust and with the pictures, it was RUST! It took a while to formulate an answer to the question, not from the initial poster but rather the poor answers that came later.
Basically it is a well rusted engine and cooling system that looks like it had some leak stop chemical added at some time and it never got cleaned out either. That givces a bit of darker color to the rust and also helps it to cling together better. Anybody that has been working on older cars should know exactly what it looks like and be able to recognize it immediately from even a quick description of the stuff.

 
TheDude013 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 13

Age: 37
Loc: Lewisville IN
Reg: 07-02-10
07-13-10 05:41 PM - Post#1944884    
    In response to 52chevybob

Thanks everyone for your answers. Glad there is a place i can go to get advice.
Thanks
Jason
1953 chevy 210 sedan


 
6-bangertim 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 2108

Age: 57
Loc: El Cajon, Calif.
Reg: 11-30-08
07-14-10 12:25 AM - Post#1945006    
    In response to TheDude013

Jason, you have a couple of options you can try. First, try to flush as much crud as you can from the radiator. Pull both hoses off and stick a garden hose in the upper outlet - seal it with a large rag, leave the cap on. Gradually turn the hose on (with a helper) as you watch the flow out of the lower outlet until you get to full blast and the water runs clear. If the flow seems restricted, the radiator will have to come out and go into the shop to get rodded out.

A shop could also backflush the block throgh the thermostat housing - with the thermostat removed, using water and air pressure. I'd check the freeze plugs FIRST - a safe bet with brass plugs, but a BIG MAYBE if the're steel, as they may be rusted out just shy of leaking.

I would take a shot at backflushing at home with engine cold and off. Pull the thermostat out and stick a garden hose in the hose outlet as above. Look for a drain plug on the driver's side of the block - a couple inches above the oil pan near the very rear and remove. Have a piece of wire handy to poke it out and to keep it clear as you flush. You may not be able to get the water to run clear - light orange will be OK.

Drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the flange of the thermostat,before installing. This will keep air pockets out of the head, as you refill the system.

Refill with water and PRESTONE SUPER CLEANER ( not the 10-min. fast flush) and leave in for at least 3 hours of running/drive time. Run the heater at full blast for a 1/2 hour.

Drain and flush as above again - ENGINE COLD AND OFF.

Good Luck, Tim

Too Poor to Restore...My Nifty 150!
Proud owner of MISS NOVEMBER - 2011 Tri-Five Calender


 
beejay 
Ultra Senior Member
Posts: 12599
beejay
Age: 78
Loc: Pflugerville, Texas
Reg: 06-01-04
07-16-10 11:37 AM - Post#1946222    
    In response to 6-bangertim

When you finish with all that, either fill raddy with premixed coolant OR antifreeze/distilled water at 50/50. Don't use faucet water to keep in the raddy. Too many minerals involved.
Bruce

'56 4-door BelAir, 350, Holley 600, Eddie intake, TKO 600, CPP P/S and A arms, Sierra Gold & Adobe Beige
2010 VW Jetta S/W, 2.5, 5-cyl,6-spd auto.
'87 Elkie, 350 with 700r4 tranny B&M floor shift
http://www.picturetrail.com/beejay3/"


 
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