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Username Post: 327 Rear Seal Replacement        (Topic#225893)
Impala_Mike 
Member
Posts: 168
Impala_Mike
Loc: Shawnee,Ks
Reg: 12-15-01
09-14-09 04:30 PM - Post#1771934    

Hi all,

I need to replace the rear main seal on my 64 Impala. Is there a special seal that is needed to
replace the old one?

Can it be done without pulling the motor??

If so, can some of you point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.

Mike
1964 Impala Convertible 327/250 Goldwood Yellow AT,PS,PB,AC,Tilt,AM/FM,Power Seats.


 
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danam 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1368
danam
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-15-04
09-14-09 09:05 PM - Post#1772097    
    In response to Impala_Mike

you must remove the transmission first. To do that, with the motor in, you've got to lift it the motor up a bit... you might as well just take it out at that point. then the can of worms can open!
[ insert witty comment here ]


 
DZAUTO 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7376

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
09-15-09 09:45 AM - Post#1772323    
    In response to danam

  • danam Said:
you must remove the transmission first.



WHY?
Tom Parsons


 
danam 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1368
danam
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-15-04
09-15-09 10:03 AM - Post#1772335    
    In response to DZAUTO

well, I guess you don't need to if you are installing a 2-piece seal... I'll let you explain what's involved in that procedure. In my opinion, it's easier to remove the transmission.
[ insert witty comment here ]


 
DZAUTO 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7376

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
09-15-09 01:16 PM - Post#1772438    
    In response to danam

And you are exactly 100% correct if the engine is an 86-later block (91-later for BBs). They have a 1-piece rear seal (it's a big O-ring), which DOES require removal of the tranny and flywheel or flexplate.
But if you have the 85-earlier style block, it has a 2-piece rear seal.
With a 2-piece seal style block, you remove the pan, remove the oil pump, remove the rear main cap (AND, some of us like to loosen the other 4 caps to allow the crank to drop a few thousandths). Gently persuade the UPPER seal half to slide around and out ------------------ BE SUPER CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH THE CRANK JOURNAL!!!!!!!!!
If you have a 2-piece type seal, BUY A GOOD QUALITY SEAL! Felpro makes an excellent quality double lip seal.
Wipe, clean, dry, wipe, clean, dry, EVERYTHING around the seal area. Gently and carefully slide the upper seal half (lip facing FORWARD) into position around the crank journal ------------- leaving approximately 1/4in of the end of the seal hanging down. The purpose of doing this is so that the seal ends are not in line with the cap/block mating surfaces. Place the lower half in the cap with approximately 1/4in sticking up on the opposite side. Put a VERY TEENY TINY amount of gasket sealer on the cap, just OUTBOARD of the ends of the seal. CAREFULLY position the cap on the bottom of the block, making sure each protruding end of each seal half slips into position. Button up the caps to the proper torque, install the oil pump, install the oil pan with a new gasket.
In my book, the ONLY way to go with a new pan gasket is the newer one-piece pan gaskets. Yes, they are priced somewhat higher than the 4-piece gasket set, but they are worth it.
THE NEWER ONE-PIECE GASKET INSTRUCTIONS SAY NOT TO USE ANY GASKET SEALER. Maybe so, maybe no. But I STILL use a little RTV (ultra copper) in EACH corner, on each side of the gasket.
None of my pans installed in this manner leak!

Before you drop the pan to replace a 2-piece seal, I recommend putting the car on jack stands and let it sit for a few days (AT LEAST 3days), to allow as much oil as possible to drain into the pan-------------- trust me --------------- once you remove that pan, oil is going to drip, drip, drip, drip!!!
Tom Parsons


 
Impala_Mike 
Member
Posts: 168
Impala_Mike
Loc: Shawnee,Ks
Reg: 12-15-01
09-15-09 03:44 PM - Post#1772529    
    In response to DZAUTO

Thanks for your input. It it a 64 327 so I asume I am looking at a 2 piece gasket. Sounds like it might be easier to to pull the engine and tranny and maybe replace all needed gaskets at that time. Not sure when or if they have ever been replaced. Also the leak from the seal has made somewhat of a mess on the under side of car. Looks like it can be a LONG weekend project.

Any advice or preference on replacement seal?

Thanks again, Mike
1964 Impala Convertible 327/250 Goldwood Yellow AT,PS,PB,AC,Tilt,AM/FM,Power Seats.


 
Kdurgin 
"5th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1980
Kdurgin
Age: 52
Loc: Maine
Reg: 10-28-07
09-15-09 03:58 PM - Post#1772534    
    In response to Impala_Mike

DZ says Felpro, so I would go with it.
62 Impala SS 383 Small Block, Tremec TKO 600, 3.70 gears. Black.

2011 Corvette Grand Sport dry sump 6 speed 436 H.P 2LT. Black.

1965 C-10 SWB BBW Fleetside Black.

2003 100th Anniversary Harley 2 tone Silver and Black Road King.





 
danam 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1368
danam
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-15-04
09-15-09 04:13 PM - Post#1772540    
    In response to Impala_Mike

I know what you mean, I have the same messy thing going on in my 327. At least it keeps the frame from rusting! I plan on replacing the powerglide at some point.

Question: if you were to remove the crank main caps, lowering crank a few thousands, wouldn't that disturb the seal on the other end of the crank?
[ insert witty comment here ]


 
DZAUTO 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 7376

Loc: Mustang, OK, USA
Reg: 12-25-99
09-16-09 05:42 AM - Post#1772857    
    In response to danam

  • danam Said:
I know what you mean, I have the same messy thing going on in my 327. At least it keeps the frame from rusting! I plan on replacing the powerglide at some point.

Question: if you were to remove the crank main caps, lowering crank a few thousands, wouldn't that disturb the seal on the other end of the crank?



Just LOOSEN the caps, DO NOT remove them. Just run the main cap bolts down 1-2 full threads, that's all (ONLY the rear cap is removed). Myself and multiple people over the years have done this procedure without doing any damage to the front seal. Remember, you're only talking about dropping the crank enough to help relieve some of the pressure from the upper seal half.
A gentle nudge on one side of the seal half with a screwdriver and gripping the other side of the seal with some good pointed needle nose pliers, along with some slight jiggling, should loosen the seal half so that it will start moving around the crank journal.
It REALLY is a fairly easy job------------just messy with the dripping oil from the engine above.
This is one job that you DO NOT WANT TO GET IN A HURRY WITH!!!!!!!!!! Get the car up on stands high enough that you can move around comfortably, have plenty of light on the area (go to the bathroom before starting) and just take it slow and easy.
Tom Parsons


 
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