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Username Post: door adjustment        (Topic#209943)
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-18-09 08:42 AM - Post#1632751    

I'm trying to align the doors on the 49. The passenger door needs to be raised up at the front of the door. I have the Fischer Body service manual and it looks like I have to remove the door to get to the up and down adjustment at the door pillar. Am I reading this right? Or if anyone has done this without removing the door what are the tricks?
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
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2blu52 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14983

Age: 81
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
02-18-09 12:10 PM - Post#1632879    
    In response to usmile4

There are two adjustments, one on the "A" pillar at the hinges, the other is done from the door. The 49/54 shop manual indicates which adjustment to use for up and down and forward or back. I have not read the manual for this information for some time but I never had the idea that the door had to be removed. One thing I have learned over the years is to always without fail take a marker and mark around the hinge plates and the latch plates before moving any thing. With the mark in place you can always return to the starting place. Doors can give the uninitiated fits.
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-18-09 01:21 PM - Post#1632952    
    In response to 2blu52

In the manual it states: Up and down and fore and aft adjustments are provided through oversized attaching bolt holes on the front body hinge pillar. then on one of the adjustments it states: Remove door and at the body pillar adjust the upper hinge....

so I took that to mean if I need to raise the door at the front of the door I need to use the adjustment on the body hinge pillar and therefore need to remove the door.

When I look at the door, the top of the front fender is higher than the edge of the door. I am trying to attach the front body hinge pillar belt weatherstrip and the door needs to be higher to clear the strip.
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
52chevybob 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5628

Reg: 05-27-08
02-18-09 02:31 PM - Post#1632996    
    In response to usmile4

Basically with the up down adjustment, you need to get eh weight off of the hinges. When you break loose the hinges, the door will be completely free to go up and down and tilt so the best thing is to pull the door. A good shadetree mechanic will just loosen the door bolts and move the door to where he wants it.

 
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-18-09 02:36 PM - Post#1632999    
    In response to 52chevybob

I thought I had to take off the door to get to the bolts. Is it possible to get to the hinge bolts from the inside of the fender by going up from the bottom?
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
2blu52 
"13th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 14983

Age: 81
Loc: Montana
Reg: 03-12-02
02-18-09 05:09 PM - Post#1633118    
    In response to usmile4

  • usmile4 Said:
In the manual it states: Up and down and fore and aft adjustments are provided through oversized attaching bolt holes on the front body hinge pillar. then on one of the adjustments it states: Remove door and at the body pillar adjust the upper hinge....

so I took that to mean if I need to raise the door at the front of the door I need to use the adjustment on the body hinge pillar and therefore need to remove the door.

When I look at the door, the top of the front fender is higher than the edge of the door. I am trying to attach the front body hinge pillar belt weatherstrip and the door needs to be higher to clear the strip.


My apologies, memory must be failing me. At least I can find my way home as yet.
"PEACE IS THAT GLORIUS MOMENT IN HISTORY WHEN EVERY ONE STANDS AROUND RELOADING"

THOMAS JEFFERSON


 
Bill K.b 
Senior Member
Posts: 4259

Loc: upstate NY
Reg: 10-24-05
02-18-09 09:02 PM - Post#1633319    
    In response to 2blu52

Here's the deal. Get a floor jack. Use a hole saw to cut a hole in a short piece of 2x4 so it fits on the pad of the jack, or cut a round piece of wood to sit in the cup if it has a large cup. Mount piece of wood to another 2x4 that's the length of the door bottom. Open door, use jack and wood to support door and raise accordingly. Jack should be located towards the hinge end of the door. This should let you take the weight off the door, and because you can raise these jacks a small amount at a time, give you enough control to carefully raise the door as needed.

Doors are a pain in the butt, the ones on my Suburban need work too. Only the right front closes the way it should.
Those who can, do. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

1988 G20 van 5.7L - driver.
1993 3500 dually 5.7L NV4500 - tow truck
1991 G20 van - parts truck

Plus cars for swap and sale
&yes, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


 
rrausch 
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rrausch
Loc: L.A, Cal. & St. Louis...
Reg: 04-07-03
02-18-09 11:53 PM - Post#1633414    
    In response to Bill K.b

I removed the doors on my '54 Chevy 3/4 ton truck, to weatherstrip them, and never did get them back the way they should have been. BUT... that was before CT. In a few months I'll be reinstalling the doors on my 210, and I have high hopes of getting it done right, and done fairly quickly.
1953 210 Convertible, 261 with dual Carter YF 966S carbs, P.S., Remote Bendix P.B. Booster... shade-tree restoration about done.




 
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-19-09 06:31 AM - Post#1633495    
    In response to Bill K.b

  • Bill K.b Said:
Here's the deal. Get a floor jack. Use a hole saw to cut a hole in a short piece of 2x4 so it fits on the pad of the jack, or cut a round piece of wood to sit in the cup if it has a large cup. Mount piece of wood to another 2x4 that's the length of the door bottom. Open door, use jack and wood to support door and raise accordingly. Jack should be located towards the hinge end of the door. This should let you take the weight off the door, and because you can raise these jacks a small amount at a time, give you enough control to carefully raise the door as needed.

Doors are a pain in the butt, the ones on my Suburban need work too. Only the right front closes the way it should.



You are sounding like I don't need to remove the door so how do I get to the bolts that are on the body pillar underneath the fender?
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
52chevybob 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 5628

Reg: 05-27-08
02-19-09 10:10 PM - Post#1634138    
    In response to usmile4

Aren't those bolts on the inside? If so, you just remove the kick panel.

 
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-20-09 06:34 AM - Post#1634305    
    In response to 52chevybob

Now that would make lots of sense...I will have to check it out.
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
eplantage 
Senior Member
Posts: 1731
eplantage
Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
02-20-09 06:39 AM - Post#1634312    
    In response to usmile4

There isn't any access to the bolts from inside the '49 kick panel area. Adjustment is made on the door pillar behind the rear edge of the front fender. For moving the door forward or to the rear adjustment is made using these bolts. For moving the door in or out use the bolts that are attached to the door itself, you can remove the check link for better access. Some adjustment can be made using the striker on the door jamb.
Age: 60 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
arnieg141 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6353
arnieg141
Loc: nj
Reg: 10-06-08
02-20-09 06:49 AM - Post#1634319    
    In response to eplantage

DO YOU HAVE PHOTO OF DOOR SHOT ON CAR SO WE SEE THE GAP.. bill is top rear door real close bottom rear of door big cap if so shim the lower hing at door. you can put floor jack with piece of wood on it slitly jack rear bottom of door when putting shims
GET ER DONE .. AS I GET OLDER I LIKE FAST CARS I CAN STILL DRIVE. AND VERY SLOW WOMEN I CAN CATCH while still able..arnie garrison


Edited by arnieg141 on 02-20-09 06:55 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
eplantage 
Senior Member
Posts: 1731
eplantage
Loc: Southern MN
Reg: 03-15-04
02-20-09 06:55 AM - Post#1634323    
    In response to arnieg141

It's easiest to access these bolts with the fender off, although if you remove the bolts at the bottom of the fender you can pry it out and get access from below behind the splash panel. These bolts have a very low profile head on them, (9/16") so what I did was grind a box end wrench so the edge was sharp so the wrench didn't slip off the bolt, then loosen enough to make the adjustment.
Age: 60 at the moment
1950 Chevrolet Sedan Delivery
1953 BelAir Convertible Project
2002 Heritage Springer FLSTSI
1930 Model A Standard Coupe


 
usmile4 
"7th Year Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 3837
usmile4
Age: 67
Loc: Naperville, Illinois
Reg: 08-12-05
02-20-09 02:53 PM - Post#1634661    
    In response to arnieg141

I'm out of town until the first of the week so I can't get any picture until then. The problem area is on the front of the door where the door and fender corve down from the beltline moulding. The top of the fender is higher than the door at that point. The bottom of the door is very tight to the rocker so I figure I need to move the whole door up to align the front of the door to the top part of the fender. It's hard to explain, so I'll get some pictures the first of the week.
Bill Gommel

49 chevy Styleline (Sold), 51 Styleline 2 dr Special, 235 (from a 61 truck) bored .060 over, Dual Carter/Webers, Fenton Headers, T5- 5 speed with a 56 rear end.


 
RAM_51 
Senior Member
Posts: 2586
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
02-21-09 09:48 PM - Post#1635671    
    In response to eplantage

  • eplantage Said:
It's easiest to access these bolts with the fender off



EPLANTAGE has it right. The bolts that you need to get to are under the trailing edge of the fender AND under the rubber dust curtain. Not the best design, but that's the way GM did it. My advice would be to remove the fender to make the adjustment[s]. Then, once you are happy with how everything is adjusted, re-hang the fender. Remember to adjust door WITHOUT the stricker plate attached to the door jamb. Get your gaps right, then replace the striker plate in the appropriate location to get a good closure of the door...follow your manual for this operation. Lastly, re-hang the fender.
1950 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)
1951 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)


 
RhinoRay 
Contributor
Posts: 527
RhinoRay
Age: 62
Loc: Kelseyville
Reg: 02-27-07
02-23-09 12:05 AM - Post#1636375    
    In response to RAM_51

That sounds like a lot of work. I wouldn't attempt to do it without some help putting those fenders back on. I'd be a bit apprehensive to to it myself. There got to be a better way.
RhinoRay
52 Chevy Coupe
Kelseyville, CA
Slide Show Of The Project
Intake, Exhaust, Tranny


 
RAM_51 
Senior Member
Posts: 2586
RAM_51
Loc: Yakima, WA. USA
Reg: 12-28-02
02-24-09 09:22 AM - Post#1637426    
    In response to RhinoRay

Actually, re-hanging the fender is the easy part. You can place rags on the inter-fender panel and remove them before bolting the fender on. The tough part is getting AND KEEPING the door where you want it as you tighten the bolts down. A helper might be adviseable for this part of the operation. To repeat, hanging the fender [one in this case] is the easy part of the operation. Of course there is alot of bolt and screw turning to get to the point of dropping the fender [ie, the rocker molding should be removed, along with the front splash apron, and grill should be removed as well]. Yeah, there is some work involved...that was one thing I signed up for when I bought my '51.
1950 Styleline DeLuxe 4 DOOR SEDAN (Mist Green)
1951 Styleline Special BUSINESS COUPE (Shadow Gray)


 
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