Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Silver
Gold ***Platinum***
deek01BigDogSS (6)jk56chevy (11)WarrenL (2)Jens (10)
edad2000Custom_Deluxe_20VetteGyrl (2)JohnB (2)
speedygman (7)rickityfiftyMafo971Clifford Lao502drfleetline
Jud Leowish Non-synchronizedWGS53MobyVandurahereford
gary635g (6)
johnhem (10)
Greyimpala (5)
emil
axmaker (3)
socalarch (3)
usmile4 (8)
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella Interiors American Auto Wire Art Morrison.com
Exile® Battery Keeper™ 6/12 volt charger w/ LED battery monitor
Low priced Genuine GM Auto PartsEcklers AutoMotive
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & Custom
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy

Recent Hot Topics
Current Quote
"Let's ALL do what we can to TOOT THE HORN for ChevyTalk - OUR BOWTIE BROTHERHOOD IS THE BEST ON THE 'NET!!!"
~ Supporting Member
Recent Topics
Join the Community today







Username Post: 230 / 250 into a '49 fleetline        (Topic#201455)
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-20-08 08:11 PM - Post#1546622    

I know that the 230 / 250 / 292 is completely different in mounts, etc from the 216 / 235 / 261, but what is needed to make the swap?

Would like to put a 230 w/powerglide & 10 bolt into my '49 fleetline, am removing it, complete, from a '69 camaro.

Any suggestions?

I know I have seen comments on this before, but have not been able to find them again.

Thanks,
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
This Forum is Sponsored by

bobsclassicchevy.com
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18714

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-20-08 10:59 PM - Post#1546681    
    In response to jmschristiansen

This is a very good swap, and we have several members here with one of these engines in their cars.

Depending on your fab skills, you can either make your own engine mounts or get commercial mounts from Langdons.
http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product....

The same goes for the transmission mount. If you don't want to make your own, you can get a bolt-in crossmember from Chassis Engineering.
http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/

Almost no modification is needed in the engine compartment. Everything clears except the radiator, and there is room to move it far enough forward. You will need to convert the electrical system to 12 volts because there is no stock 6 volt starter which will fit the engine.

Hopefully, one of the members who has done this swap can chime in and maybe post some pics.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-22-08 04:13 PM - Post#1547819    
    In response to raycow

Thanks for the comment Ray, hopefully someone else will post some pictures / experience regarding this swap.

I hope to go pick up the drivetrain this weekend.

Thanks for the sites as well, I had seen the Stovebolt stuff before, but could not remember where, so that was a help.

Again, anybody else have experience with this swap? What about parts availability for the 230? Seems it should be better at least than the 216...
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
Mike JW 
Contributor
Posts: 986
Mike JW
Loc: Arroyo Grande, CA
Reg: 01-19-06
10-22-08 08:21 PM - Post#1548003    
    In response to jmschristiansen

Hi I put a 292 in my 50, same motor family, I made my mounts as the mounts are stagered on the 292 but I think the 230 or 250 are the same as the V8's I believe some one makes a cross member and motor mount that bolts in or welds in, your choice. I'm not much on pictures but would be glad to help if I can. Mike


 
EdG'52 
Senior Member
Posts: 357
EdG'52
Loc: Eastern Pennsylvania
Reg: 01-11-04
10-23-08 03:12 PM - Post#1548435    
    In response to jmschristiansen

I rebuilt and dropped in a 1972 250/PG/rear into my 1952. This swap is very easy to do. I bought the mounts and bolt in adaptors from Chassis Engineering and fabbed the trans mount. The rear swap was also easy just by following the tech articles in the forum.

A couple of notes; I left the engine sitting up a bit so that I can get at the bell crank without removing the engine. I set the engine as far back as possible while still allowing clearance for the valve cover to be removed. Using this setting I chose to run an electric fan vs relocating the radiator.

I say go for it and let us know if you have any questions during the project!!

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo217/EdG1952/ C...


Ed
Ed
'52 Coupe Ledsled
in process...


 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-23-08 06:08 PM - Post#1548551    
    In response to EdG'52

Thanks Ed, great pictures!

Looks like fun.

Are you using the stock 3 speed shifter? How have you worked out the linkage?

The guy at Stovebolt (bought their motor mounts) said I could use the stock crossmember "with an extension". Any idea what he meant?

Thanks again
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18714

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-23-08 06:49 PM - Post#1548586    
    In response to jmschristiansen

  • jmschristiansen Said:
The guy at Stovebolt (bought their motor mounts) said I could use the stock crossmember "with an extension". Any idea what he meant?


The rear mount on the PG is farther to the rear than on your stock 3 speed. This means that the PG mount will land behind the stock crossmember. If you want to see how far, you can measure the distance from the mount to the front face of the bellhousing on both transmissions.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
EdG'52 
Senior Member
Posts: 357
EdG'52
Loc: Eastern Pennsylvania
Reg: 01-11-04
10-24-08 03:02 AM - Post#1548721    
    In response to jmschristiansen

I went for a floor shift and Monte Carlo swivel seats. For the trans mount I cut out the center section of the crossmember and fabbed a mount that can be raised, lowered or unbolted just in case I needed to pull the motor or want to switch to a differant tranny down the road. This also helped set the pinion angle. Ray is correct that the PG mount will sit further back. I believe it was just about two inches. Sorry I do not have any good pic's of the mount that I made up.

Ed
Ed
'52 Coupe Ledsled
in process...


 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-25-08 07:57 AM - Post#1549562    
    In response to EdG'52

I brought home the drivetrain last night, and looked up the casting #, shows 230 or 250, application in chevy / olds, 67 thru 72. Have not been able to locate info on the serial #.

Any ideas? Here is the info I have:

Casting #3921968
Serial #F0911AN

Heading out to wash it now, will know more later, including info on the powerglide & rear end.

Thanks,
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-25-08 02:01 PM - Post#1549766    
    In response to jmschristiansen

I picked up the entire drivetrain out of a '69 Camaro, washed it, and am now hoping someone can help me identify the components:

Inline 6, casting #3921968, says GM 69 underneath that, then CON 2, and the "clock" is at the 4 position, serial #F0911AN

Can't locate casting or serial numbers on the head

The intake has what looks like a casting #3923418, GM 36

The carburator is a 1 barrel "Monojet", "Factor tested Carburators" 7041021, 134-71 1D

The exhaust has a number, a big "GM", with "932" even bigger next to it, with 3915 underneath the "GM", which makes it look like it could be combined to make a casting #3915932.


Powerglide, can't find any markings other than patent #s and a hand written #82272

Rear axle, has 67890 on the axle tube, and then on the various webs it has: GM 71, 3969340(casting #?), NF, and 6309. The cover is held on with 10 bolts.

Any help I can get, regarding displacement, original application, ratios, etc would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
Royer 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 11411

Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michiga...
Reg: 09-25-01
10-25-08 02:34 PM - Post#1549785    
    In response to jmschristiansen

The 6-cyl. engine originally installed in a '69 Camaro would have been a 250 cubic inch engine. The two-speed Powerglide would have been the familiar aluminum case job that was used in most Chevy's (except the old "235" six) from '62 on.

Royer

 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-25-08 03:02 PM - Post#1549809    
    In response to Royer

Thanks Royer,

I am really hoping someone with a book can give me some information, as I don't know that any of these components are original to the car. The PO thinks they are, but he only had the car a couple years, and bought it from another guy who only had it a short time, so it is difficult or impossible to determine any of the history behind this.

'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18714

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-25-08 03:40 PM - Post#1549829    
    In response to jmschristiansen

Casting numbers won't always provide positive identification, because the same casting was often used for several years. What you need are the casting DATES. This is true even when you have the stamped number on the engine.

The rear axle is easy because you can count the ratio directly. Mark the pinion yoke and the housing close to the seal. Lift one wheel (or drum) off the ground. Now turn the wheel exactly TWO revolutions and count how many times the yoke turns, estimating any fractional turn as closely as you can. That number is your axle ratio.

If the wheel is difficult or impossible to turn, you may have posi. In that case, jack both wheels off the ground, turn either of them only ONE revolution, and count the pinion turns as above.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
jmschristiansen 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 57

Reg: 09-02-08
10-26-08 11:43 AM - Post#1550333    
    In response to raycow

I found a site that decoded my serial #s, turns out I have a 230. Looks like it may actually be the engine original to the car.

So far though, I have not located spec's on the powerglide. Can't even find any identifing #s on it.

The site is a Nova page: http://novaresource.org/codes.htm

Thanks for the help,
'49 Fleetline Deluxe, in the works, for my teenage sons...


 
bowtie67 
Senior Member
Posts: 658

Loc: Loudon, NH
Reg: 12-06-03
10-30-08 03:55 AM - Post#1553089    
    In response to jmschristiansen

Is there any issues with the stock steering components using the 70's era 250 cylinder? Also I talked to Stovebolt about this swap and said that there was some firewall modification needed, does anyone know what mods he is talking about or has anyone not had to modify it? I have a 76 Nova as a donor vehicle with a 250 & T-350 trans. We will be bringing the car home this weekend, 2 previous owners have not gotten the orginal engine to run, but is supposedly supposed to. I am hoping it does so I can focus on other things and save the swap out till next year being I sm still finishing up my 48 Coupe this winter.

Edited by bowtie67 on 10-30-08 03:56 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
raycow 
Honored Member
Posts: 18714

Age: 71
Loc: San Francisco, CA
Reg: 11-26-02
10-30-08 11:04 AM - Post#1553291    
    In response to bowtie67

No firewall modification is needed for the head that uses a separate intake manifold. Does your engine have the manifold in one piece with the head? If yes, is this why Stovebolt is saying you will need to modify the firewall?

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
EdG'52 
Senior Member
Posts: 357
EdG'52
Loc: Eastern Pennsylvania
Reg: 01-11-04
10-30-08 03:29 PM - Post#1553485    
    In response to bowtie67

Having done the 250/glide swap, I can tell you there is no firewall mod needed. You may need to modify the frame bracket just a bit as it will interfere with the steering box arm. This was a very minor thing to do with a grinder.

I chose to modify the firewall braces while I had the body off the car. I did so because I have grand thoughts of putting a big block in somewhere down the road - plus I do not like the looks of the stock braces. There are pic's of the firewall brace mod's in my alblum link. This was also easy to do. Simply drill out the spot welds, remove and trim down the braces and relocate them outward a bit.

Ed
Ed
'52 Coupe Ledsled
in process...


 
bowtie67 
Senior Member
Posts: 658

Loc: Loudon, NH
Reg: 12-06-03
10-30-08 04:19 PM - Post#1553517    
    In response to raycow

  • raycow Said:
No firewall modification is needed for the head that uses a separate intake manifold. Does your engine have the manifold in one piece with the head? If yes, is this why Stovebolt is saying you will need to modify the firewall?

Ray


currently the head has the intgral manifold, he also told me I had to chop some sort of chunk off of either the block or head. The current 216 is supposed to run but the 2 previous owners couldnt get it to run, if it is capable of running I can get it to run, question will be how it runs will determin if the 250 goes in now or later, I am prefering later giving me more time to find the earlier style head.

 
This Forum is Sponsored by

bobsclassicchevy.com
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

3809 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.168 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 01:53 AM
Top