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Username Post: 4X4 actuator question        (Topic#198812)
bignmuddy 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 52
bignmuddy
Age: 34
Loc: OH
Reg: 08-20-08
09-13-08 10:22 PM - Post#1521938    

I've got a 92 4X4 that wont go into 4wheel. I want to know how to test the actuator. I took it off and wired it straight to the battery and it moved out slowly, then went back in slowly.( so i think that means its ok, right?) And it got REAL hot when i did.(i only held it on for several seconds.) I want to know how i can test it if that doesnt seem right too u guys. I dont want to spend the money to replace it if it aint bad. That and if u could lead me to another think to look for why she wont go in? Any ideas ?????? Thanks. mud man

 
scrambldcj8 
Senior Member
Posts: 1612

Loc: MA
Reg: 04-06-03
09-14-08 10:48 AM - Post#1522123    
    In response to bignmuddy

Do a search here as I am not completely sure. I do know there is also a switch in the Tcase that actuates the actuator (like that?) when the Tcase is shifted into 4wd. Search for similar posts or possibly...I think it was "phazer" <<< do a name search with 4x4 actuator details. Good luck.

 
nickmac 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1063
nickmac
Loc: Scandia, PA
Reg: 02-13-07
09-14-08 04:51 PM - Post#1522312    
    In response to scrambldcj8

You probably have a thermal actuator and that is why it gets hot. They tend to go bad. There is an upgrade to electric, but requires a new actuator and wiring harness. There is a switch on the top of the transfer case. You should be able to check the voltage at the actuator to see if the switch is doing its job. Also if your cv half shafts are bad that can keep it from going into 4wd.
Dan
'05 Chevy TrailBlazer 4.2 4x4
'04 Chevy K1500 Silverado 5.3. 4x4


 
bignmuddy 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 52
bignmuddy
Age: 34
Loc: OH
Reg: 08-20-08
09-14-08 05:22 PM - Post#1522327    
    In response to scrambldcj8

Thanks for the help i'll try it soon. I did also put a 3" body lift on, but checked the linkage and it seemed to me to be fine though. If the linkage is fine and the switch on the t-case is bad, could i just run a 12v switch to the actuator? Which would also give me 2 low. I'm puzzled also because the chilton that i have doesnt have a damn thing about the actuator or the switch on the t-case. Thanks again mud man
1992 K1500 4.3 338,000 miles strong
She ain't dead, until shes 6 feet under !
33" Mud Hogs and 3" body lift

1995 Z71 5.7 166,000 miles young
Bone stock just gettin started


 
bignmuddy 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 52
bignmuddy
Age: 34
Loc: OH
Reg: 08-20-08
09-14-08 05:29 PM - Post#1522332    
    In response to nickmac

Thanks as well nickmac. I'm kinda confussed though. My actuator does have two wires, but still could be a thermal actuator And there is no play in the cv shafts. I'm gonna try in the next few days to work on it. Thanks again mud man
1992 K1500 4.3 338,000 miles strong
She ain't dead, until shes 6 feet under !
33" Mud Hogs and 3" body lift

1995 Z71 5.7 166,000 miles young
Bone stock just gettin started


 
bignmuddy 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 52
bignmuddy
Age: 34
Loc: OH
Reg: 08-20-08
09-14-08 08:11 PM - Post#1522442    
    In response to bignmuddy

Sorry guys i forgot that the battery puts out 700 some amps. The actuator may be toasted. It does work but on 700 some amps (that would explain the heat) so another question would be how many amps does the actuator need to work properly? thanks
1992 K1500 4.3 338,000 miles strong
She ain't dead, until shes 6 feet under !
33" Mud Hogs and 3" body lift

1995 Z71 5.7 166,000 miles young
Bone stock just gettin started


 
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