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Username Post: Rear Main Seal Replacement on an assembled engine        (Topic#192063)
clemsparks 
Member
Posts: 92

Loc: Columbia, MO
Reg: 05-21-03
06-16-08 08:37 AM - Post#1456835    

Hey all,

I've got a used 350 (Two piece RMS) that I plan on putting into a car. I was wondering how easy or hard it is to snake in a rear main seal with the bottom end assembled. Do you just remove the rear cap and simply feed the seal in? Does this work ok? Or should I leave "well enough" alone?

I'm weighing the options of take the chance on an unknown seal that may weep a bit...or should I just go ahead and replace the RMS?

Thanks,
Clem
If the inventor of the hammer were still alive today, he'd be penniless as a result of liability claims.


 
Vaughn 
"13th Year" Gold Supporting Member
Posts: 15832

Loc: Colorado Springs, CO
Reg: 08-08-04
06-16-08 09:37 AM - Post#1456887    
    In response to clemsparks

If it is out, replace it.

The easiest way to do it is to remove the oil pan and loosen all the main caps. This will allow you to lift the crank slightly out of the saddles, so you can slide the new upper seal in place. You don't have to remove or loosen the rod caps to do this.

You can sometimes use a tool called a "sneaky pete" to slide in a new seal on the upper side, but it only usually works well with rope seals. I've tried it on neoprene, it wasn't pretty.

 
billydonn 
Junior Contributor
Posts: 580
billydonn
Age: 66
Loc: Omaha, NE
Reg: 10-02-07
06-16-08 04:27 PM - Post#1457249    
    In response to clemsparks

Change it with engine on stand if you can. But it's not too big a deal to change it in the car if you can get the oil pan off okay without issues. A set of sharp dental-type instruments with hooked or bent ends can come in handy.
66 C-10 Stepside
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Edited by billydonn on 06-16-08 04:28 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
fritz1990 
Dedicated Enthusiast
Posts: 6426
fritz1990
Age: 53
Loc: Kansas
Reg: 02-16-03
06-16-08 05:57 PM - Post#1457345    
    In response to billydonn

When you start putting in the upper half of the seal, rotate the crank slowly in the direction the seal is going. This usually helps push the seal around the crank, but go slow. Don't forget a small dab of silicone on the ends.

Regards, Jeff
1998 K1500 6.5 Coal burner
1965 C10 with 498 BBC AFR Heads
1964 C10 Ran 348W for 6 years, now SBC.

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ranman 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 10706
ranman
Loc: The cold wet and windy O...
Reg: 03-10-01
06-16-08 10:31 PM - Post#1457524    
    In response to fritz1990

  • fritz1990 Said:
When you start putting in the upper half of the seal, rotate the crank slowly in the direction the seal is going. This usually helps push the seal around the crank, but go slow. Don't forget a small dab of silicone on the ends.

Regards, Jeff


Isn't there a speacial sealer made for this?
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BrianEsser 
BANNED
Posts: 7383

Age: 38
Loc: North Star, Ohio
Reg: 06-30-01
06-17-08 06:08 AM - Post#1457708    
    In response to ranman

I use anerobic(sp?) sealer myself and never had an issue. I believe thats what you're refering to.


 
ranman 
"2nd Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 10706
ranman
Loc: The cold wet and windy O...
Reg: 03-10-01
06-17-08 06:17 AM - Post#1457717    
    In response to BrianEsser

That's the one.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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billydonn 
Junior Contributor
Posts: 580
billydonn
Age: 66
Loc: Omaha, NE
Reg: 10-02-07
06-19-08 06:13 AM - Post#1459530    
    In response to clemsparks

When I did mine I staggered the upper/lower joint a little by rotating so that it didn't line up with the bearing cap joints....just a few degrees.
66 C-10 Stepside
350TPI Engine
Tremec TKO 600

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craigblock 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4008
craigblock
Loc: Ottawa
Reg: 05-22-05
06-19-08 10:26 AM - Post#1459732    
    In response to billydonn

  • billydonn Said:
When I did mine I staggered the upper/lower joint a little by rotating so that it didn't line up with the bearing cap joints....just a few degrees.



Same here. It's a good idea and it's fairly easy to do.
Casting Numbers


 
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