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Username Post: WRONG EGR VALVE?        (Topic#187293)
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-14-08 04:14 PM - Post#1411425    

SO IVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHATS MAKING MY TRUCK RUN LIKE censored..THOUGHT IT MAY BE THE TBI UNIT...AND IT COULD BE. BUT BEFORE I RIP IT ALL APART THIS COMMING WEEKEND I HAVE THIS ON MY MIND.

LAST WEEKEND I REPLACED THE O2 SENSOR, PCV VALVE, AND THE EGR VALVE. I BOUGHT THE EGR VALVE FROM AUTOZONE. WHEN I GOT HOME I COMPARED THE OLD ONE TO THE NEW ONE. HERE WAS THE DIFFERENCE:

THE OLD ONE HAD TWO PORTS AT THE MOUNTING BASE...A SQUARE ON UP TOP, AND A ROUND ONE AT THE BOTTOM.

THE NEW ONE HAD THE SAME PORTS AND EVERYTHING MATCHED UP AND FIT...THE ONLY DIFFERENCE WAS THAT THE ROUND PORT HAD A CYLINDER INSIDE OF IT...AND BY PUSHING IT IT MAKES THE DIAPHRAM CONTRACT.
UNLIKE ON THE STOCK EGR VALVE, WHERE THE DIAPHRAM IS EXPOSED...YOU CAN SIMPLY JUST PUSH IT IN...MAKING SENSE.

SO THIS NEW EGR VLAVE....COULD IT BE THAT THIS IS NOT THE RIGHT KIND OF VALVE, AS IN...DOES THIS VALVE WITH THE CYLINDER INSIDE OF IT GO ON A NEWER ENGINE? I HAVE NO IDEA....COMMON SENSE TELLS ME THAT NTHE CYLINDER WORKS TWO WAYS. ONE IT WORKS ON VACUUM....TWO IT HAS TO HAVE SOMETHING PUSHING IT LIKE ANOTHER CYLINDER.....IM THINKING IT WORKS ON VACUUM AND WITH ME HAVING THIS VACCUM LEAK...THE TRUCK MAY NOT HAVE ENOUGH TO MAKE IT WORK...

BE EASY ON ME WITH THIS...LOL...MY TRUCK BEFORE THIS WAS A 77 GMC....SO IM NEW TO TBI ENGINES. IM JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT ALL POSSIBILITIES BEFORE I START REPLACING MANIFOLD AND TBI GASKETS.

 
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Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-14-08 04:55 PM - Post#1411449    
    In response to longmire77

A little more info on make model and year please.

What's your definition of runs like censored? Hesitation, stumble, tip-in stumble, rich at idle cold?

Any codes?
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-14-08 11:21 PM - Post#1411709    
    In response to Phazer

well its a 89 GMC 1/2 ton. 305 TBI. Just a stock engine.

I just bought the truck about a week and a half ago. The check Engine light came on, shortly after, it sputtered in mid drive a couple times. Accelerating down the street at normal speed, then down the interstate at higher speeds. I have ran the tank to almost empty and refilled it. I took it to Autozone and they did not have a code reader that would fit my year model. I had to go to work so i did not have time to get it checked again. It got to the point where it would randomly die on me so i havent driven it anywhere.

So i replaced the PCV and EGR valves, and the O2 Sensor. This is what its still doing

It start just fine, but then runs pretty rough and very rich. Idles back to normal and runs for a bit, then out of no where it gasps for air, it has a pretty bad vaccum leak that you can really hear when its sputters, idles down super low and then gasps for air. I have said that on a previous post, and was informed of maybe changing the TBI gasket because its common for it to fail.

I am also thinking that it could be the EGR sylanoid. But like i said, im new to TBI and all the electronics. I just did three years in the Army where i did not have the time or money to buy a project and the tools to work on one. Its been roughly 3 to four years since i have been in a shop on a regular basis...and when i was before...i was around old engines. So im just having to get use t all the other issues that come along with newer projects.

But anyways, thats what the truck is doing....like i said, i might have the wrong EGR valve....and i DO know that this would be much easier if i could get a code reader. But i figured id ask some people who have been there with the same style issues.



 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25740
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-15-08 01:55 AM - Post#1411743    
    In response to longmire77

These systems are pretty simple, and not very smart - often there can be a problem that won't even set a trouble code. Sometimes you can get trouble codes that will lead you down the wrong path because they're associated with a particular sensor or part, but the code is actually caused by a chain reaction from some other fault.

You can read your own codes (if any) very easily with nothing more complicated than a paper clip - go to www.troublecodes.net for more info.

On to the EGR valve; I've long been a big believer that the parts house "one size fits many" EGR valves are a bad idea on these TBI engines. TBI's seem overly sensitive to the correct EGR being used and will run poorly at idle/part throttle with a bad or incorrect EGR valve. It costs more to get it from the dealer, about $75, but it's best to get it from them and take your VIN with you as they'll need it to pick the right part. Before buying a new one though, read the post in the FAQ (sticky at the top of this forum's post listing) about EGR valves. Your old one may be good - hope you didn't chunk it yet!

Running rich at idle and the almost-stall condition coupled with what sounds like a big vacuum leak - I'd be testing my CTS (coolant temperature sensor, located next to the thermostat housing), can be done with an ohmmeter. There's also a post about this in the FAQ. The CTS may be telling the engine the coolant is colder than it actually is, causing the fuel mixture to be very rich. It can do this so much that it will stall the engine - it's happened to me on another truck. The gasping for air is likely the IAC (idle air control motor) going wide open in an attempt to keep the truck from stalling out. The one I had did this too. It is essentially a computer-controlled vacuum leak, used to raise/lower the idle as needed.

Of course the TBI base gasket info is good too - easy enough to check, just like you'd check for any other vacuum leak. Spray some carb cleaner, WD40, or a small propane bottle with a nozzle on it, your choice of spray around the gasket and see if it affects your idle. Problem is, your idle is already erratic, so you may just have to go ahead and pull your TBI unit off the intake and inspect the gasket, and likely replace it anyway. Buy one ahead of time.

I know it's a little frustrating dealing with a new set of problems when you're used to old tech engines, but these TBI systems are pretty rock solid and will go a long way with little trouble. In fact, I'd say it's probably the simplest computer controlled engine I've ever seen. Every now and then they get gremlins just like anything else, though.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-15-08 03:36 AM - Post#1411763    
    In response to someotherguy

Everything Richard said, I second that.

Get the code checked first. Unless you disconnect the battery, it will be in memory.

TBI gasket: Yes, very easy to check but by itself will usually only cause a high idle. If it is sucked in and you need to replace it, check for carbon buildup under the TBI.

CTS: Usually located on or near the t/stat and will have a yellow & black wire going to it. Unplugged, the ECM will see -38* and shorted together the ECM will see 380*. Theoretically these two readings "are" possible and often won't turn on a check engine light.

EGR: Not too much of a problem on these trucks. Stuck open and they won't idle, (dies like a vacume leak but no sound heard). Stuck shut and they might ping on acceleration. Weak spring/diaphragm and they can open too soon and cause a hesitation. Usually you can unplug the hose going to the valve and plug it with something and that eliminates that item from the equation, (unless it's stuck open or opening on it's own...highly unlikely on a new EGR but not impossible).
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
Harlan 
Member
Posts: 68

Loc: Lansdale, PA
Reg: 11-15-04
04-15-08 07:11 AM - Post#1411883    
    In response to Phazer

On the EGR valve from AutoZone, I got 1 for my 94 350TBI, and it was as you described, but had a package of flat washers (orifices). Each washer was numbered, and there was an instruction sheet that crossed over which washer was to be installed depending on the original EGR valve part number. You "peened" the washer to the base of the EGR flange.
It has worked fine, and was $49(AutoZone) vs $90(GM)

 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-15-08 03:38 PM - Post#1412172    
    In response to Harlan

OK FELLAS...I APPRECIATE ALL THE INFO...AS ALWAYS, ITS VERY VERY HELPFUL AND GIVES ME SOME DIRECTION. THIS WEEKEND I WILL GIVE THE EGR VALVE ONE MORE SHOT. I DO HAVE THE BAG OF WASHERS, AND WILL MAKE SURE I HAVE THE RIGHT ONE INSTALLED. IF THAT DOES NOT WORK, I STILL HAVE THE OLD ONE ASWELL. IN ADDITION I WILL CHECK EVERYTHING ELSE THAT YOU GUYS HAVE ADVISED ME ON AND I WILL GIVE YOU AN UPDATE EITHER WAY...IF I FIX IT I WILL LET YA KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS...LOL..AND WELL..IF I DONT...ILL BE POSTING ANOTHER HELP TOPIC. BUT THATNKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE ADVICE, YOU TIPS AND KNOWLEDGE ARE WELL APPRECIATED!!

 
Bad Bowtie 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 4559
Bad Bowtie
Age: 42
Loc: TX
Reg: 07-04-03
04-16-08 06:23 AM - Post#1412482    
    In response to longmire77

"I DO HAVE THE BAG OF WASHERS, AND WILL MAKE SURE I HAVE THE RIGHT ONE INSTALLED."

I'm confused here, did u go with a non-GM EGR valve then?
GMC. We are Professional Grade.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/2004VHO


 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-16-08 04:22 PM - Post#1412902    
    In response to Bad Bowtie

yup...i bought one from Autozone, it was advised to me that they would work just aswell as the stock GM EGR valves. The bag of washers...lol...its just that...a bag with washers that are all numbered. And every washer with a number, goes to a different engine. I may have installed the wrong washer...since i didnt know thats what they were all for. Just a jr. mistake....lol..easy fix..no biggie

BUT...i did get some codes guys....so maybe yall can help me out with this.

Code 21-
Throttle position sensor (TPS)- signal voltage is high during engine idle or deceleration.

Code 34-
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor- signal voltage or frequency is low during engine cruise

OR

Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor-signal voltage is low during ignition on.

OR

Pressure sensor circuit- signal voltage too high or low (carburetor engines)

thats how the book that came with the code reader listed it.

SOOOOO...lol...im still checking the washer this weekend in the EGR valve, but some of you TBI wizzes explain these codes to me in a way that i can understand...like i said, im slowly but surley getting the hang of the TBI engines...ive only had one for about two weeks now. Thanks in advance to everyones replies to this code topic!!!


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25740
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-16-08 04:28 PM - Post#1412905    
    In response to longmire77

Okay, so put the washer into the EGR that the instructions call for. We won't tease you too much about this. But I still say the OEM part is better. I do acknowledge that some people have had okay luck with the aftermarket item, it's just not my personal preference.

As far as the multiple codes, here's what I would do.

1. Fix the EGR problem by installing the correct washer.
2. Check your sensor grounds near the thermostat housing. They may be corroded and funky; clean them up and make sure they're good. Sometimes the stud through the housing will spin and want to destroy the wires so just use a little penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my fave) and take your time.
3. Be sure the engine to body ground is intact, there should at least be one ground braid running from the body to the rear of the passenger side cylinder head. It may be hard to see.
4. Clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for at least 30 seconds then reconnect it.

See if the codes come back after that and then we'll go further into them. Code 34 on a TBI will be the MAP sensor. Probably not the cause for the code but while we're discussing the MAP, check its vacuum line on the bottom rear of the TBI; often the rubber boot hardens and slips off or gets loose.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25740
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-16-08 04:29 PM - Post#1412906    
    In response to someotherguy

Oh, and let's not forget to test the coolant temperature sensor - CTS - there's a post about this in the FAQ at the top of this forum. Your rich idle / wants to stall / then the big vacuum leak sound really seems to me that your CTS is lying to the ECM and commanding it to be much richer than it needs.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-16-08 06:49 PM - Post#1413037    
    In response to someotherguy

Again...I second what Richard says.

MAP codes: "Almost" always caused by drivability problems CAUSED by something else. A bad plug wire will/can cause a MAP code.
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-18-08 08:57 PM - Post#1414700    
    In response to Phazer

OK....SO I REPLACED THE CTS. IT WAS A BIT CORRODED AND FUNKY. ON TOP OF THAT, I CLEANED UP THE OLD EGR VALVE AND RE-INSTALLED IT. THE DIAPHRAGM WASNT TOO TIGHT OR LOOSE...MINOR CARBON BUILD UP..THATS ALL. AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS WHOLE MESS I JUST STARTED SOMEHWERE..AND REPLACING THE EGR VALVE SOUNDED LIKE A DECENT PLACE TO START. LITTLE DID I KNOW THAT THE CURRENT EGR VALVE HAD NOTHING WRONG WITH IT, AND WAS BETTER FOR THE ENGINE THAN THE UNIVERSAL ONE FROM AUTOZONE..SO WITH ALL THAT MESS SAID..THE OLD EGR IS BACK ON.

NOW.....AFTER REPLACING ALL OF THIS..I CLEARDED THE TROUBLE CODES AND THEN CRANKED HER UP. iT STARTED FINE...RAN ROUGH FOR A BIT...AFTER GIVING IT SOME GAS IT SMOOTHED OUT AND RAN FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES OR SO. THEN IT DIED ON ME AGAIN....SAME ISSUE....IT STARTED TO IDLE REALLY LOW AND ROUGH...SAME VACUUM SOUND, AND THEN DIED. I CHECKED THE CODES AGAIN, AND IT GAVE ME CODE 21.

21-THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR--SIGNAL VOLTAGE IS HIGH DURING ENGINE IDLE OR DECELERATION.

I CHECKED THE TPS CONNECTOR WITH A VOLTMETER....IT GAVE ME 0 OHMS. AT THAT POINT I WAS TIRED AND FRUSTRADED...SO MAYBE I JUST HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO USE A VOLTMETER...(WRONG SETTING)..LOL.

THE TPS ITSELF LOOKS FAIRLY NEW NEW TO THE REST OF THE TBI.

SO I DONT KNOW IF THE CODE IS JUST BOGUS AND ITS REALLY SOMETHING ELSE....

IF THE 0 OHMM READING MEANS THE ECM/PCM IS BAD OR THE WIRES LEADING TO IT....

OR IF THE TPS ITSLEF IS BAD...

AS YOU CAN TELL FROM HOW I AM WRITING....I AM VERY CONFUSED AND FRUSTRADED. DOESNT HELP THAT I DONT KNOW MUCH OF WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT HERE WITH THIS TBI SYSTEM...LOL

SO I LOOK FORWARD TO WHAT YOU GUYS HAVE TO TELL ME ABOUT THIS. I DO WANT TO SAY THANKS THO!!!! AFTERALL, THIS IS JUST A PROJECT AND NOT MY DAILY DRIVER, SO WORKING ON IT, AND WORKING ON IT....AND WORKING ON IT IN THE LONG RUN IS FUN. AND ALL YOUR SPEEDY REPLIES, TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS HELP IN A HUGE WAY....WITH OUT UR HELP....WELL ID BE RUNNING IN CIRCLES. WITH ME WANTING TO RESTORE THIS TRUCK..LEARNING ALL THE ELECTRICAL TBI ISSUES IS SOMEMITHING I HAVE TO DO..AND HAVING TO LEARN THEM ALL RIGHT FROM THE GET GO SEEMS LIKE A GOOD TIME TO START...SO ILL SHUT UP NOW AND SEE WHAT YOU GUYS HAVE TO SAY....THANKS AGAIN!!

 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
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Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-18-08 09:08 PM - Post#1414703    
    In response to longmire77

I can't remember paticular ohm readings on a TPS, but a high reading would probably be over 1.00 volt at idle. They should be around .5 at idle and 5.00 at WOT.

Common sense tells me that the ECM is giving a constant 5.0 volts on one wire and at idle, the ECM sees little or nothing on the other wire. As the TPS rotates, resistance should go down until it passes the full 5.0 volts.

Is this a 2 or 3 wire TPS?
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-19-08 01:28 AM - Post#1414766    
    In response to Phazer

it is a three wire TPS, i am replacing the conector in the morning. Its pretty rough. My only other fear at this point is that something in the computer is messed up....but we will see i guess...i will for sure give updates!!

 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-19-08 03:49 AM - Post#1414782    
    In response to longmire77

Usually a bad ECM on this year will throw out 3-5 codes so it's highly unlikely it's the ECM. Boneyard ECM's for this year ought to be pretty cheap because of the lack of demand. Also check for any rodent damage on associated wiring, the little critters just love that stuff. BTW, the percentage of a bad TPS verses the trucks out there is "very" small.
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25740
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-19-08 06:15 AM - Post#1414851    
    In response to longmire77

Like Phazer said, the TPS is tested for voltage - a fairly narrow range between about 0.5V at idle and 4.5V at wide open. I hate doing it because I know I'm setting the wires up for oxidation, but the easiest place to test is to gently probe the dark blue wire itself right where it connects to the TPS. Poke your red meter lead into the wire and clip your black lead to a good ground. If the connector or wiring is in poor shape, it could be affecting the reading from the TPS. You'll want the meter set on DC voltage, tens range, which on most meters will have a symbol sort of like a V with straight lines across it, indicating "direct." Do this with the engine OFF. Rotate the throttle linkage and watch your meter; you should see it sweep smoothly through the voltage range. Any spikes or dead spots, pay close attention as that's a problem.

By the way, when your engine is trying to stall, can you climb up there and see what the IAC is doing? With the air cleaner off, and also helps to take the spacer ring out of the way; look in the passenger rear corner of the TBI - can you see the IAC's pintle sticking into the hole, or is the hole empty? Here's a pic, will look slightly different from your TBI as this one is a '94 but essentially the same:



Note the empty hole. In this picture my engine is off, and the pintle is fully retracted. If I were to start it up and have it idling fast during warm-up mode, the pintle would creep just ever-so-slightly into the bore to where I would see a tiny amount of its tip. As the engine warms up, the pintle will extend further, lessening the controlled vacuum leak and dropping the idle as needed. With that crash course in what the IAC is supposed to do, try watching it when your problem is happening and note what it's doing. Maybe the IAC has some carbon or crud on the tip and that's interfering with the airflow.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-20-08 02:55 AM - Post#1415385    
    In response to someotherguy

WELL FELLAS...ITS FIXED!!!

I REPLACED THE TPS, AND THEN TOOK RICHARDS ADVICE ON CHECKING THE IAC ASWELL. I COULDNT SEE MUCH, SO I PULLED IT OUT AND IT JUST LOOKED OLD AND IT WOULDNT HURT TO REPLACE IT, SINCE IVE REPLACED JUST ABOUT EVERY OTHER EMISSIONS VALVE..LOL.

IT WAS THE TPS THO....I RAN IT BEFORE REPLACING THE IAC...AND IT RAN FINE...BUT I WASNT TAKING A CHANCE, AND LIKE I SAID, WHY NOT SINCE IM ALREADY WORKING ON IT.

THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND ADVICE GUYS!!! AFTER THIS WHOLE ISSUE I ALREADY FEEL MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE WITH THE TBI SYSTEM, AND THANKS TO YALL THE PROCESS WENT SMOOTH!!

YOU WILL BE HEARING FROM ME SOON ENOUGH THO...I GET ON THE SITE EVRYDAY JUST TO READ UP ON THINGS AND SEE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE TO SAY....ITS BEEN VERY INTERESTING.

 
longmire77 
Newbie
Posts: 16
longmire77
Age: 29
Loc: Tampa FL
Reg: 04-09-08
04-20-08 02:57 AM - Post#1415386    
    In response to someotherguy

WELL FELLAS...ITS FIXED!!!

I REPLACED THE TPS, AND THEN TOOK RICHARDS ADVICE ON CHECKING THE IAC ASWELL. I COULDNT SEE MUCH, SO I PULLED IT OUT AND IT JUST LOOKED OLD AND IT WOULDNT HURT TO REPLACE IT, SINCE IVE REPLACED JUST ABOUT EVERY OTHER EMISSIONS VALVE..LOL.

IT WAS THE TPS THO....I RAN IT BEFORE REPLACING THE IAC...AND IT RAN FINE...BUT I WASNT TAKING A CHANCE, AND LIKE I SAID, WHY NOT SINCE IM ALREADY WORKING ON IT.

THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND ADVICE GUYS!!! AFTER THIS WHOLE ISSUE I ALREADY FEEL MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE WITH THE TBI SYSTEM, AND THANKS TO YALL THE PROCESS WENT SMOOTH!!

YOU WILL BE HEARING FROM ME SOON ENOUGH THO...I GET ON THE SITE EVRYDAY JUST TO READ UP ON THINGS AND SEE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE TO SAY....ITS BEEN VERY INTERESTING.

 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 25740
someotherguy
Age: 44
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-20-08 04:58 AM - Post#1415408    
    In response to longmire77

Glad to hear you got it going!

Like Phazer said, TPS isn't really a big problem area on our trucks - but there have been a few people in here that experienced bad ones. As the trucks get older I'm sure we'll see more and more of it.

Richard
94 C2500LD / 97 Suburban LS1 / 06 300C SRT8
Check out my truck shop projects


 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-20-08 08:39 AM - Post#1415555    
    In response to longmire77

EXCELLENT!!! Glad you got it fixed!!
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


 
Phazer 
Valued Contributor
Posts: 3004
Phazer
Loc: Armpit of the Universe
Reg: 10-10-03
04-20-08 08:40 AM - Post#1415556    
    In response to someotherguy

Deleted for double post.
My "To Do List" for this weekend:
Nothing but womens names...
and drugs....

92 Bravada
96 Sunfire
00 Impala
05 Stratus
90 Wrangler
77 Cub Lo-boy
87 Intruder VS700
95 Intruder VS1400


Edited by Phazer on 04-20-08 08:40 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
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