Gain extra benefits by becoming a Supporting Member Click here find out how!
Classic Performance Products Classic Parts
Ciadella InteriorsAmerican Auto Wire Classic Industries
Chevs of the 40sDanchuk Catalog
Hellwig Products IncPerformance Rod & CustomEcklers AutoMotive
Octane LightingNu-Relics Power Windows
Impala Bob's Bob's Chevy Trucks Bob's Chevelle Parts Bob's Classic Chevy

 Page 1 of 2 ALL12
Username Post: broken hose fitting in manifold. DOH!        (Topic#153399)
TwoTimer 
Senior Member
Posts: 189
TwoTimer
Loc: Phoenix, AZ.
Reg: 06-05-04
03-05-07 09:48 PM - Post#1112293    

Simple job went south. Any tips on how to get the crappy pot metal heater hose fitting out of intake manifold after it's already sheared off?

JT Wright in AZ
99 Tahoe (89K)
95 K1500 (150K)


 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
Cotterpin39 
Contributor
Posts: 292

Age: 65
Loc: Vincennes,In.
Reg: 11-30-05
03-05-07 10:56 PM - Post#1112331    
    In response to TwoTimer

This is how I did it , stuff a piece of rag in the hole to keep junk out . Use a short section of hacksaw blade held in vicegrips to saw thru the pot metal piece in thirds . Use a pick or sharp nail to tap the piece free from the threaded hole . You should feel the difference in cutting when you rake the steel threads verses the pot metal . Easy does it . Good luck .

Who's the contemptable scoundrel that stole the cork from my lunch ?....W.C. Fields

39 Master Deluxe Coupe
66 Impala 2dht
89 GMC Sierra
04 300M


 
Choaf 
Member
Posts: 170
Choaf
Age: 35
Loc: Oklahoma
Reg: 11-03-04
03-06-07 01:38 AM - Post#1112366    
    In response to Cotterpin39

They make a simple remover tool for just that job i think around here it was like 9 bucks all you do is tap it into the hole then put your socket on there and out it comes.

In god we trust, all others must pay cash.

91 S-10 4wd 4dr Blazer: 4.3
98 Yukon 4wd 4dr: 5.7
57 Bel-air 4dr sedan: 283 w/powerglide
38 2dr Olds business coupe: 455


 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
03-06-07 05:57 AM - Post#1112427    
    In response to Choaf

There is no "simple" removal tool when you have to dig each thread out with a pic. I believe there is a link up in the "searching for info" regarding this fitting.



 
denny4 
Contributor
Posts: 604
denny4
Loc: MB.,Can.
Reg: 05-27-06
03-06-07 09:00 AM - Post#1112555    
    In response to TwoTimer

This happened to my dads. We took the manifold off to make it easier and chiseled them out then completely cleaned the manifold while it was out. Then we went with a regular heater hose and a standard typee of fitting,no more quick connect!.

'95 K1500 5.7 GMC Siera SLE xt cab,Flowtech headers new y-pipe,cat,2 1/2 exhaust w/magnaflow muffler,homeade dual snorkle airbreather w/dual heat tubes.


Edited by denny4 on 03-06-07 09:00 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
TwoTimer 
Senior Member
Posts: 189
TwoTimer
Loc: Phoenix, AZ.
Reg: 06-05-04
03-06-07 09:20 AM - Post#1112580    
    In response to Choaf

  • Choaf Said:
They make a simple remover tool for just that job i think around here it was like 9 bucks all you do is tap it into the hole then put your socket on there and out it comes.



OK Choaf, you're answer is intriguing. Have you personally done this and where would you get such a gem?

JT Wright in AZ
99 Tahoe (89K)
95 K1500 (150K)


 
champion88 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 12

Reg: 02-27-07
03-06-07 11:24 AM - Post#1112729    
    In response to TwoTimer

He's right, they sell a tool made specifically for taking out this fitting at O'reilly's for about $9. It has very deep straight flutes that you drive in with a hammer and then screw the fitting out with a socket. I bought one and it removed the fitting with ease. They also sell the new quick connect fitting to go back with, it looks to be made better than the factory one, and it cost around $10.



 
TwoTimer 
Senior Member
Posts: 189
TwoTimer
Loc: Phoenix, AZ.
Reg: 06-05-04
03-06-07 01:21 PM - Post#1112819    
    In response to champion88

Good news. Too bad I was antsy last night and already have the manifold ready to remove. That tool was hard to locate but I did find one. Dorman 800-408 sold Here

Thanks for all the useful info.

JT Wright in AZ
99 Tahoe (89K)
95 K1500 (150K)


Edited by TwoTimer on 03-06-07 01:23 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Choaf 
Member
Posts: 170
Choaf
Age: 35
Loc: Oklahoma
Reg: 11-03-04
03-06-07 05:48 PM - Post#1113057    
    In response to champion88

Thank you champion for backing me up.

In god we trust, all others must pay cash.

91 S-10 4wd 4dr Blazer: 4.3
98 Yukon 4wd 4dr: 5.7
57 Bel-air 4dr sedan: 283 w/powerglide
38 2dr Olds business coupe: 455


 
jbknight311 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1053
jbknight311
Age: 59
Loc: Fort Worth, TX
Reg: 11-27-06
03-06-07 07:43 PM - Post#1113136    
    In response to Choaf

The special tool is a pipe thread easy out. Some times they work well, other times they don't and just grind shavings into the hole. Worth a shot though as it can save a few hours. I see them in the red HELP items section at AutoZone and O'Riellys.

98 C1500 Silverado extended cab 5.7 auto 2wd Fort Worth, TX.


 
TwoTimer 
Senior Member
Posts: 189
TwoTimer
Loc: Phoenix, AZ.
Reg: 06-05-04
03-07-07 07:24 AM - Post#1113428    
    In response to jbknight311

This turned out to be some sort of molecular bond. 15" wrench and 2 lb sledge would not budge it. I turned to the air chisel. This got me close but there's still a lot of clean up. I need either a large tap or a NEW manifold.

JT Wright in AZ
99 Tahoe (89K)
95 K1500 (150K)


 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
03-07-07 07:34 AM - Post#1113432    
    In response to TwoTimer

You need a 1/2" pipe tap, it's tapered so do just as much as you have to as it is possible to enlarge it too much. Turn it a little bit at a time then back out to clean the threads/tap. You can grease the tap and it will catch most of the filings.

Sounds time consuming but really isn't. If the threads are full of material near the outside of the boss, use an ice pic or awl to clean out those first.



 
jp233 
Senior Member
Posts: 1023
jp233
Loc: ATL, GA
Reg: 03-15-04
03-07-07 08:16 AM - Post#1113460    
    In response to CDAUSA

yes I broke mine off and did the hacksaw blade trick. Worked great, and I used a shop vac to help retrieve chunks of pewter. It actually sucked up quite a bit of coolant with it, so I assumed it got all the metal. I picked big chunks out by hand (grabber-thingys, etc). But using your finger or something with grease on it will also grab a lot of metal crud out of the threads. I used a small awl and 90 degree pick to clean the threads too.

here is my ubiquitious cut and paste:

_________________________ ______

Yep, that pewter fitting is another GM piece of junk design that maybe saved them a few pennies in manufacturing/sourcing but makes life down the road for the user (us) a PITA.

The new GM steel fitting is 24503681

I bought mine from gmpartsdirect and the package came with two (one parts bag) Each were $6 but both came out to $12. So I gave my other one to a friend.

My old pewter fitting snapped off IMMEDIATELY when I put a wrench on it. I used a deep well 29mm socket (I think it was 29... anyways it was big), and I had soaked it a few times with PB Blaster, but it didn't matter.

Since it snapped off like so many do, I had to use a hacksaw blade by hand to cut 4 grooves into the broken pieces to get all the threaded parts out. It wasn't too bad really. I was careful to grab the chunks of pewter so they didn't fall into the intake manifold. I cleaned the threads by hand well (didn't run a tap through there since I couldn't find that big of a size - but that would be ideal). Used a shop-vac to suck pieces out, truthfully I sucked a lot of coolant out from the intake LOL!

The heater hose just snaps right out with the little plastic clips. The new steel GM fitting comes with female plastic clips so once you get the new fitting screwed in there tight (it comes with sealant on its threads but I still used a little black high-temp RTV because I did saw a tiny bit into the threads in one place), you just snap the hose back in and you're done! You will lose some coolant along the way so, have some on hand to fill it back up. I waited a day to let the RTV seal and dry completely. Then I ran it up to temp and played the coolant level game.

All in all it was not that bad of an ordeal. I was prepared with the hacksaw blades because I had read here that the pewter crap would break, although I did have to grind down the hacksaw blade because it was too wide to get in there and do the sawing.

that fitting doesn't leak a DROP now...

'99 Ford F-250 SuperDuty 7.3L diesel
sold '97 Chevy Tahoe Z71
several Subarus
several bikes
not enough time


 
CDAUSA 
Needs to Get Out More Member
Posts: 12906

Loc: Texas Panhandle
Reg: 12-31-01
03-07-07 08:35 AM - Post#1113485    
    In response to jp233

I remember

There may be difference in whether or not the piece goes into cast iron, or aluminum. There is certainly, a different chemical reaction between them.

I knew well, from what grief you guys were having I was going to have to pay my dues eventually and likely at the worst time like there is ever a good one.

When I first saw a total of maybe, 10 drops underneath it, I reached down to check the quick connect hose end--------gently, and the whole thing came off in my hand. But I had carried the steel replacement with me for 5 or so years, nearly 200K miles, it was time.



 
Boog 
Super Senior Member
Posts: 3875
Boog
Loc: Central Arkansas
Reg: 04-28-02
03-07-07 06:16 PM - Post#1113947    
    In response to CDAUSA

I have had to replace 3 of these p i a fittings so far and all of them broke off. I was being real carefull to use a box end wrench or socket but it didn't make any difference. Slight turn of the tool and snap! then crumble. I cut 4 slots in the fitting with a hacksaw blade and chipped out what I could with a narrow chisel. I couldn't find a 1/2" tap so I made one out of a 10" long piece of black pipe threaded on each end. I used my angle grinder to cut 4 slots longways through the pipe threads to resemble a tap and it worked like a charm. Cleaned the left over fitting pieces right out of there. And a lot cheaper than a tap too.

Boog
69 Chevy step
06 GMC ccsb Z71
09 Yukon slt 4 wd
All GM...'nuff said!
JR Nation


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 677

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
03-10-07 08:50 AM - Post#1116071    
    In response to Boog

My son has a 95 with 70,000 miles & I am wondering what to do with the heater hoses. They are original & after reading the above, wonder about replacing them. He's coming tonight to change antifreeze & radiator hoses. No stores open tomorrow if we run into trouble. Any sugestions?

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
jbknight311 
Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 1053
jbknight311
Age: 59
Loc: Fort Worth, TX
Reg: 11-27-06
03-10-07 02:22 PM - Post#1116277    
    In response to J REID

Mr. Reid,
I'd recommend if your worried about the fitting on the intake and no stores are open and you do not have the replacement fitting, the OEm or the pipe one, then don't mess with them at all. Sometimes they can be fine until you breathe on them and then they fall apart.
Get the parts first so you can fix it if need be when you do it.

98 C1500 Silverado extended cab 5.7 auto 2wd Fort Worth, TX.


 
camaro865 
Very Senior Member
Posts: 1192
camaro865
Loc: Massachusetts
Reg: 10-13-03
03-10-07 07:54 PM - Post#1116488    
    In response to jbknight311

deffinately get the part before you take the old one off.

who knows, you may get lucky and it might come right out.

i've done 2 of these fittings total on high mileage (150+) and they both came right out. it might help if the engines good and hot, who knows haha.

but on a 70K engine i would think your fitting would be a little stronger, not as many heating and cooling cycles.

03 silverado 1500 HD 6.0 4 door crew cab 4x4


 
J REID 
Member
Posts: 677

Loc: SW Minnesota
Reg: 04-09-04
03-18-07 03:46 PM - Post#1122528    
    In response to camaro865

Thanks for the replies. He decided not to bring it even though he has the fitting. Is only 1 of the fittings a bad one to replace? It seems that I looked at it one time & didn't see anything that looked easy.

57 210 4dr, 57 2dr ht project, 67 Chevelle SS project, 40 Chev coup project


 
demp 
Newbie
Posts: 2

Reg: 09-09-08
09-09-08 10:09 AM - Post#1518527    
    In response to J REID

Thanks for all the great ideas on this problem. I broke my son's last night and was at wit's end how to fix it without removing manifold. I did read another site that said someone had cracked their manifold while using an easy out so care is the big word! I'll get all he 'tools' together and give it a try tonight.



 
1967AND2002 
Member
Posts: 151

Loc: Austin, Texas
Reg: 10-10-02
06-17-09 01:15 PM - Post#1718794    
    In response to demp

I was just wondering if it was sprayed with PB blaster ahead of time would it help to get it out. Also if the vehicle was hot and you put ice in the fitting just before trying to remove it. Anyone tried either of these?

Past: 56-210, 60-348conv, 62-ImpSS409, 64-ImpSS327/365, 65Imp, 67CamaroZ, 68&96Corvettes, 71M/Carlo, 74M/Carlo, 75El/CaminoSS, 75Stepside, 94-1500.
Now: 69Corvette, 96-1500, 77-454TrlrSpc, 83K5Blazer, 04z71, 02CamaroZ, 5103JD


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28313
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
06-17-09 02:14 PM - Post#1718821    
    In response to 1967AND2002

You could try those methods, no harm in them, that's for sure...but they won't do much (if anything) for the main reason the thing breaks; the material is corroded and weak.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
drifterdude 
Frequent Contributor
Posts: 1285

Reg: 09-04-08
06-18-09 08:52 AM - Post#1719270    
    In response to someotherguy

its easiet ive found is to remove the intake so you can clean the intake out and go ahead and check your rods and such and get a glimps of the condition your heads are in. But mainly so you can sit it on a bench in front of you and take the time to do it right without worry of droping crud in the engine. Plus not much room to move in the back of the engine bay.

92 K1500:350 bored 30 over,built 700r4,Comp extreme energy cam,double roller timing set,shaved heads,Rancho RS9000XL series shocks with wireless my ride system,35 inch Mickey Thompson Baja Claws,Relocated 4x4 switch to rocker on Dash.
Other mods..


 
flynbrian 
Contributor
Posts: 149

Age: 43
Loc: Middletown Ohio
Reg: 11-13-07
09-09-09 09:56 AM - Post#1768903    
    In response to drifterdude

I just fixed this problem on my 95' it was leaking pretty bad.

I got the truck this way....When I went to take it apart I discovered that someone bent the fitting and I couldnt get the aluminum tube out because the plastic clip had absolutely no chance of coming out...

I pulled and wiggled at the fitting...It broke off and wasnt that hard to get the tube out once the plastic was cut away with a razor knife.

I bought the Lisle tool that hammers down in the remains of the fitting....But it was too loose a fit and the fitting was too far gone so it just spun and made a mess.

I ended up sticking a 3/8-18 NPT tap into the hole and cranked it down in there....It was a size smaller but it cut out alot of junk.

Then I was able to take a pick and a hammer and chisel out away from the threads a piece of the fitting. Once I got behind it it was all over in minutes. I plucked it out with some needle nose and then I couldnt find a 1/2" NPT tap....

So I found a spare 1/2" fitting laying around the garage and cut 4 longitudinal grooves with my cuttoff wheel to act like a tap. I threaded it down into the hole to clean up the existing threads nicely and then I installed the "Dorman" steel replacement fitting. Worked like a charm.

No more leak and the truck could be driven again!



 
Tim4994 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 1

Reg: 04-12-17
04-12-17 05:17 AM - Post#2686166    
    In response to TwoTimer

A simple 1/2 hour job (for me) turned into three days of missing work because GM thought pewter was a good idea... Other people have hinted/mentioned this but, it IS a molecular issue, called "galvanic corrosion"; it's caused when two dissimilar metals are in contact in a corrosive environment.

"My old pewter fitting snapped off IMMEDIATELY when I put a wrench on it. I used a deep well 29mm socket (I think it was 29... '~[[28mm in my case]]~' anyways it was big), and I had soaked it a few times with PB Blaster, but it didn't matter"

So, basically, the metals weld themselves together over time... Unfortunately for me, I've been running around like a chicken with it's head cut off trying to get the tools/parts/etcetera - for all these days - and the 'pro, at Advance Auto Farts said, very confidently, "Oh, you don't have to buy the removal tool https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lisle-Coupler-Remo ver-H... " it's pewter - just chip it into pieces with a hammer and a screwdriver - needless to say, that didn't work and, since the two metals are molecularly bonded, the tool would not have worked either... Now I'm up Sh*t's Creek and researching how to un-weld this stupid coupling....






 
thx1138v2 
Contributor
Posts: 117

Reg: 05-01-14
04-12-17 07:01 AM - Post#2686181    
    In response to Tim4994

I don't think it's "moleculary bonded". I had the same problem of it breaking off but mine came out with a large ease-out for galvanized pipe. I can't remember now if the ease-out was for 1/2" or 3/4" galvanized pipe but I got it at a hardware store in the plumbing tools section. It was fairly pricey if I remember correctly - maybe $30 - $40. I don't know if you have enough left after chiseling it for that to work though.

I was replacing intake manifold gaskets so I had it off the truck which probably made it easier also.

This was last year so the truck was 22 years old and I bought it new so I know it was the original and the truck was overheated once during that time maybe 10 years ago.



Edited by thx1138v2 on 04-12-17 07:02 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
CowboyTrukr 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3648
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
04-12-17 12:02 PM - Post#2686250    
    In response to thx1138v2

My solution for the broken fitting was to slather a wad of axle grease on a fresh hack saw blade and draw cut the fitting. Pulling out constantly helped to ensure no lost filings inside the engine. You make two cuts. One at 6:00 and one at 3:00 or 9:00. Then a little gentle nudging with a pick to get the wedge out. After that, I used the pick to lift one of the edges so it could be lifted out.

Hope it helps someone else.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.8L/NV3500
'00 Contour SE 2.5 24V
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
someotherguy 
Moderator
Posts: 28313
someotherguy
Age: 47
Loc: Texas
Reg: 08-01-03
04-12-17 01:05 PM - Post#2686259    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

If you've ever replaced an expansion plug on the side of the block and encountered the amount of crusty trash that builds up inside the cooling passages, you wouldn't sweat a few specks of pewter added by the hacksaw job. I agree the grease is a good method from putting excessive junk in there but if a few escape, I wouldn't worry one bit.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


 
CowboyTrukr 
"6th Year" Silver Supporting Member
Posts: 3648
CowboyTrukr
Loc: Salt Lake City
Reg: 06-20-09
04-12-17 06:39 PM - Post#2686316    
    In response to someotherguy

Roger that, Richard. The block I bought for my build was so full of crud before getting it washed. Total crust bomb.

Greg

'95 K1500 Z71 EC Short Step 5.8L/NV3500
'00 Contour SE 2.5 24V
'94 K2500 5.7 NV4500 ECLB - SOLD

"The only thing necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing" Sir Edmund Burke


 
crazykartman 
Forum Newbie
Posts: 3

Reg: 10-17-16
07-21-17 05:58 PM - Post#2700851    
    In response to CowboyTrukr

I had a terrible time getting it out and decided to just remove the manifold because I had s gasket leak on that rear gasket. Though it would be straightforward to just remove it and to it right but the distributor hold down bolt decided to break if at the manifold. So ended up spending 2 days trying to remove a bolt and clean out the threads of the heater hose port.

I decided I didn't want to experience that again so I put in a new gasket set using black rtv because I hate leaks. I flushed the entire cooling system and put in fresh coolant. Installed a new qd and low and behold it started to leak within a few months. Needless to say I wasn't happy. I removed that stupid qd and went to the hardware store and bought a 1/2" npt barb (I'm pretty sure so take your qd with you). I picked up a foot of heater hose to go over that barb. Screwed the barb in with teflon tape, cut off a 4" piece of hose and put the hose on the barb and tightened down with a hose clamp. Removed the cheap plastic clip off of the heater line and put the hose over the end of that and clamped it down. So far no leaks and it will be much easier to remove things should I have a leak again.





Edited by crazykartman on 07-21-17 05:59 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
Low priced Genuine GM Auto Parts
 Page 1 of 2 ALL12
Icon Legend Permissions Topic Options
Report Post

Quote Post

Quick Reply

Print Topic

Email Topic

46390 Views
FusionBB
FusionBB™ Version 2.1
©2003-2006 InteractivePHP, Inc.
Execution time: 0.482 seconds.   Total Queries: 13   Zlib Compression is on.
All times are (GMT -0800) Pacific. Current time is 03:32 PM
Top