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Username Post: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap        (Topic#127359)
Root 
Member
Posts: 78

Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
03-23-06 02:14 PM - Post#902138    

Hi guys, I don't post a lot here. I lurk mainly. I remember reading a post some time back that covered the rear end swap for the 55-59 Chevy pass car housing in place of the closed drive line.

Here are my options. I have a 50 Fleetline that I am building with my 13 y/o son. I have a good 57 pass car rearend that I pulled out of my street rod. It was a 3.36 and has new brakes etc.

I also have an 80 model Camaro 3.73, a salvage yard find, condition is unknown.

I know that both rears will fit but I want to match the gearing as closely to the 235/T-5 swap I am about to do.
I am performing a frame up on this particular car, so the frame will be stripped to the bare minnimum. What would you use? I think the brackets on the Camaro are butt ugly, but I hate the sticker shock of the roller bearings in the 57 rear...

BTW, how far forward do I need to redrill the holes on the leaf pad. I have searched and searched this forum but to no avail. The post I read may have been purged by now.

Decisions decisions.

Thanks
Root

 
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raycow 
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Age: 71
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-23-06 03:21 PM - Post#902139    
    In response to Root

The 3.73 would be a good match for the T-5. 6 cylinder cars with factory O/D came with a 3.70 from about 1960 on. This doesn't mean a 235 won't pull a 3.36 gear, because it will, but you may be needing to shift out of O/D more often with the 3.36.

In case you haven't measured it yet, the Camaro rear is somewhat wider than the 57. It's not enough to cause any problems with stock size tires, but you may need to compensate for the extra width if you plan to go significantly wider than stock.

The holes in the perches need to be moved approximately 1-3/4" forward. Instead of measuring, it may be better to visually center the wheels in the wheel openings. The actual location isn't all that critical as long as it looks right.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
Root 
Member
Posts: 78

Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-23-06 05:14 PM - Post#902140    
    In response to raycow

I've also got some 3" lowering blocks I have built. The reason I am asking now, is that I plan on pulling the body as soon as I have a dolly built to support it and roll it around.

Wonder how much the body with no frt clip or doors weighs?

 
raycow 
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-23-06 06:04 PM - Post#902141    
    In response to Root

If you are using lowering blocks you won't need to re-drill the perches. Just put two holes in the block and offset them the necessary distance.

I have heard a weight of about 500 lbs quoted for a bare body, but I haven't personally verified this. Maybe someone else here on the board might be able to speak from firsthand experience.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
Root 
Member
Posts: 78

Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-23-06 06:18 PM - Post#902142    
    In response to raycow

Thanks Ray. I'm gonna need some Bubbas to help me hoist this bad boy up, sounds like.

 
Bob_Hayden 
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Bob_Hayden
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-24-06 01:08 AM - Post#902143    
    In response to Root

500 is pretty close, I would say, also.
Bob Hayden's 54 Chevy, 350 Engine with TH400 Tranny and 94 4X4 Blazer Rear End with 3:23 gears.(FINISHED PICS) </a> My 54 Albums

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50kid 
Senior Member
Posts: 302

Loc: Boulder, CO
Reg: 02-17-02
Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-24-06 07:28 AM - Post#902144    
    In response to Bob_Hayden

Never weighed it, but my Dad who is an old 51 years, and I (22) were able to fairly easily lift a 51 4 dr body that was completely stripped. By lift, I mean one end at a time, not one man on each side. A few times I held the body up myself on one end so my dad could maneuver blocks. I guess it's sort of subjective, depending on who you are& how big you are, but it's not like it's impossible to move the body around.


 
Royer 
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-24-06 08:12 AM - Post#902145    
    In response to 50kid

Especially if the doors plus the w/s and Backlite glass have already been removed, there isn't much left. I'd estimate around 400 lbs. total.

And if you've got a sedan, coupe, station wagon or other "closed" body style, you won't have to be too concerned about body flexing while off the frame - unless the tinworm has REALLY been feeding heavilly. In this last case, or if a convertible, you'd definitely want to add some diagonal braces in the door areas and cross-car before unbolting from the frame.

Royer

 
Root 
Member
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Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-26-06 12:59 PM - Post#902146    
    In response to Royer

The body's off but I am thinking the Fleetline weighs more than 500 lbs. It was heavy. I ended up using a cherry picker on the front and 4-5 of my buddies to help remove it.

Since I don't how to post pics, I'll just link to another board I am on.

web page

 
Root 
Member
Posts: 78

Loc: Mustang,OK
Reg: 03-25-03
Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-26-06 01:03 PM - Post#902147    
    In response to raycow

Ray, how would you find the center using the blocks? I know this sounds stupid but wouldn't it be possible for the rear end to move around on the top side of the blocks? Soryy, I am new to the lowering blocks.

I made a set out of 1.75"x3"x3" solid machine steel. I just want to make sure the rear end is square with the world. Does that make any sense? I get that I'll be drilling the hole in the block instead of the perch but the top is where I get confused.

 
raycow 
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-26-06 01:23 PM - Post#902148    
    In response to Root

Tap the hole on the top side of the block and put a bolt in it. The head of that bolt fits into the hole in the perch and keeps the axle housing from moving.

As for finding the center, drill the bottom hole first, toward the front of the block. Bolt everything together loosely and slide the axle forward or back till it looks centered in the wheel opening. Then make sure the axle is square to the frame (or at least check that the wheelbase is equal on both sides), and finally mark the location for the top hole.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
raycow 
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-26-06 02:12 PM - Post#902149    
    In response to raycow

By the time realized how badly I wrote that it was too late for me to edit it. Put the first paragraph second and it will make more sense. In other words, first drill the bottom hole, then bolt it all together and center the axle, and finally drill and tap the top hole. Sorry for the confusion.

Ray
Bacon is the gateway drug for vegetarians - Bridget Lancaster


 
Royer 
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-27-06 06:32 AM - Post#902150    
    In response to raycow

I agree with this outline of the procedure completely.

It's been quite a while since I did one of these rear axle swaps, but just to get you in the ballpark: I seem to recall that the fore-and-aft difference between the vertical centerlines of the top and bottom holes will be approximately 1.25 inches.

Royer

 
Thadd 
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Thadd
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Loc: Rolling Hills, Ca,
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Re: Old tired subject, but...49-54 Chevy rear end swap
03-27-06 11:07 AM - Post#902151    
    In response to Royer

I tried the search function, but the changes to the website have messed it up. I would like to know the flange to flange width of a 49-54 rear end. Anyone have that handy?
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